Victorian Baby Doll Ensemble, part II (Stitches in Time) : Knitty Deep Fall 2011

by Franklin Habit

For almost as long as I’ve been a knitter, I’ve been fascinated by the history of knitting. I’ve especially enjoyed the mind-twisting process of working with the often obtuse and obfuscatory language of antique patterns. There’s a thrill, I find, in watching a project emerge row by row and knowing that other knitters, long gone, followed the same path.

The process of decoding, testing and correcting isn’t for everyone, though; and so in this column I hope to share the excitement of the journey by removing as many of the roadblocks as possible. You don’t need to be a historian to come along–just a knitter with a curious mind.

	translated by Franklin Habit from Weldon’s Practical Knitter, Twenty Sixth Series
model: Clarissa photos: Franklin Habit

SIZE

Fits doll 14-16 inches high

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Top Petticoat: 16 1/2 inches long including edging
Robe: 20 inches long including edging
Cloak: 16 1/2 inches long x 24 inches wide (at lower edge) including edging
Bonnet: 3 inches high by 2 inches deep

MATERIALS
Yarn
Cascade 220 Sport [100% wool; 164 yd/150 m per 50g skein]; color: 8010; 6 skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #4/3.5 mm 16-inch circular needle
1 set US #3/3.25 mm straight or circular needles

Notions
Stitch markers
Safety pin
Crochet Hook size F#5/3.75mm
Scissors
Yarn needle
Sewing needle
Sewing thread
1/2 yard (approximately) narrow (1/4 inch) grosgrain ribbon

GAUGE

24 sts/48 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch with larger needles.

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Instructions for single crochet and crochet chains can be found here.

SKP: Slip next st as if to knit, k1, then pass slipped st over st just knit.

Looped Knitting: With working yarn in right hand, wrap yarn around the tips of the first two fingers of the left hand and the tip of the right needle, held together; then wrap the yarn once more over the tip of the right needle only. With the tip of the right needle, pull all four wraps through the stitch on the left needle, and slide that stitch off the needle.

Lace Edging A
Using larger needle, CO 11 sts.
Setup row: Knit.
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1 as if to p wyif, k2tog, yo, k1, [yo, k2tog] 3 times, yo, k1. 12 sts.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 [WS]: Knit.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1 as if to p wyif, k2tog, yo, k2, [yo, k2tog] 3 times, yo, k1. 13 sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl 1 as if to p wyif, k2tog, yo, k3, [yo, k2tog] 3 times yo, k1. 14 sts.
Row 7 [RS]: Sl 1 as if to p wyif e, k2tog, yo, k4, [yo, k2tog] 3 times, yo, k1. 15 sts.
Row 9 [RS]: Sl 1 as if to p wyif, k2tog, yo, k5, [yo, k2tog] 3 times, yo, k1. 16 sts.
Row 11 [RS]: Sl 1 as if to p wyif, k2tog, yo, k6, [yo, k2tog] 3 times, yo, k1. 17 sts.
Row 12 [WS]: BO 6, k to end.
Repeat Rows 1–12 to desired length. BO.

Lace Edging B
Using larger needle, CO 7 sts.
Setup row: Knit.
Row 1 [RS]: Sl 1 as if to p wyif, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, yo, k1. 8 sts.
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 [WS]: Knit.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl 1 as above, k2tog, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, yo, k1. 9 sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Sl 1 as above, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, yo, k1. 10 sts.
Row 7 [RS]: Sl 1 as above, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, k2tog, yo, k1. 11 sts.
Row 9 [RS]: Sl 1 as above, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, yo, k1. 12 sts.
Row 11 [RS]: Sl 1 as above, k2tog, yo, k6, yo, k2tog, yo, k1. 13 sts.
Row 12 [RS]: BO 6, k to end.
Repeat Rows 1-12 to desired length. BO.

DIRECTIONS

TOP PETTICOAT
With larger circular needle, CO 80 sts. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker for start of round.

Neckline and armholes
Round 1: K.
Round 2: [Yo, k2tog] around.
Round 3: Knit.
Round 4: K17, BO 6, k until you have 34 sts on right needle after BO, BO 6, k to end of round.
Round 5: K to first gap, CO 6 sts over gap, k to next gap, CO 6 sts over gap, k to end of round. 80 sts.

Bodice
Bodice round: [K2, p2] around.
Work ribbing as set for 4 inches.

Eyelet round for waist tie, and increase for skirt: [K1, yo] around. 160 sts.

Skirt
Rounds 1-4: [K4, p4] around.
Rounds 5-8: [P4, k4] around.

Repeat Rounds 1–8 until skirt measures 9 inches (approximately 88 rounds) from eyelet round.

BO.

Optional (but historically accurate): Work one round of single crochet around each armhole.

Lace Trim
Knit a length of Edging A sufficient to trim lower edge of skirt. BO.

FINISHING
Weave in ends. Sew lace edging to hem of skirt. Crochet two lengths of 20-inch chain and thread through eyelet rows at neck and waist; tie in back.

ROBE
Front
Using larger needle, CO 50 sts.

K 5 rows.
Row 1 [RS]: K12, [SKP, yo, k2tog, k7] twice, SKP, yo, k2tog, k12. 47 sts.
Even Rows 2–8: Purl.
Row 3 [RS]: K11, [SKP, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k5] 3 times, k6.
Row 5 [RS]: K10, [SKP, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k3] 3 times, k7.
Row 7 [RS]: K9, [SKP, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k1] 3 times, k8.
Rows 9-11: Knit.
Row 12 [WS]: K to last 2 sts, k2tog. 46 sts.
Row 13 [RS]: Sl 1, [yo, k2tog, k1] to end.
Row 14 [WS]: Purl.
Repeat Rows 13-14 3 more times.
Rows 21-24: Knit.

Row 25 [RS]: K10, [SKP, yo, k2tog, k7] twice, SKP, yo, k2tog, k10. 43 sts.
Even Rows 26–32: Purl.
Row 27 [RS]: K9, [SKP, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k5] 3 times, k4.
Row 29 [RS]: K8, [SKP, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k3] 3 times, k5.
Row 31 [RS]: K7, [SKP, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k1] 3 times, k6.
Rows 33-35: Knit.
Row 36 [WS]: K to last 2 sts, k2tog. 42 sts.
Row 37 [RS]: Sl 1, [yo, k2tog, k1] to last 2 sts, yo, k2tog.
Row 38 [WS]: Purl.
Repeat Rows 37-38 3 more times.
Rows 45-48: Knit.

Row 49 [RS]: K8, [SKP, yo, k2tog, k7] twice, SKP, yo, k2tog, k8. 39 sts.
Even Rows 50-56: Purl.
Row 51 [RS]: K7, [SKP, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k5] 3 times, k2.
Row 53 [RS]: K6, [SKP, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k3] 3 times, k3.
Row 55 [RS]: K5, [SKP, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k1] 3 times, k4.
Rows 57-59: Knit.
Row 60 [WS]: K to last 2 sts, k2tog. 38 sts.
Row 61 [RS]: Sl 1, [yo, k2tog, k1] to last 4 sts, [yo, k2tog] twice.
Row 62 [WS]: Purl.
Repeat Rows 61-62 3 more times.
Rows 69-72: Knit.

Row 73 [RS]: K6, [SKP, yo, k2tog, k7] twice, SKP, yo, k2tog, k6. 35 sts.
Even Rows 74-80: Purl.
Row 75 [RS]: K5, [SKP, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k5] 3 times.
Row 77 [RS]: K4, [SKP, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k3] 3 times, k1.
Row 79 [RS]: K3, [SKP, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k1] 3 times, k2.
Rows 81-83: Knit.
Row 84 [WS]: K to last 2 sts, k2tog. 34 sts.
Row 85 [RS]: Sl 1, [yo, k2tog, k1] to end.
Row 86 [WS]: Purl.
Repeat Rows 85-86 3 more times.
Rows 69-72: Knit.

Row 97 [RS]: K4, [SKP, yo, k2tog, k7] twice, SKP, yo, k2tog, k4. 31 sts.
Even Rows 98-104: Purl.
Row 99 [RS]: K3, [SKP, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k5] twice, k to end.
Row 101 [RS]: K2, [SKP, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k3] twice, k to end.
Row 103 [RS]: K1, [SKP, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k1] 3 times.
Rows 105-107: Knit.
Row 108 [WS]: K to last 2 sts, k2tog. 30 sts.
Row 109 [RS]: Sl 1, [yo, k2tog, k1] to last 2 sts, yo, k2tog.
Row 110 [WS]: Purl.
Repeat Rows 109-110 until this section of the front equals 5 inches, or length of the doll’s body from doll’s hips to just below shoulder. End with a WS row. Put a safety pin in the fabric at the end of this row.

K 4 rows.
Next row [RS]: K3, [yo, k2tog, k1] across.
P 1 row.
K 2 rows.

Shape shoulders
Rows 1-2: K4, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: Sl1 , yo, k2tog, k1, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: P4.
Rows 5-8: K4. BO those 4 sts.

Next row [RS]: Join yarn where you left off and BO until 4 sts rem total. K to end of row.
Next row [WS]: K4.
Work Rows 3-8 as above.

Back
Using larger needle, CO 139 sts.
Rows 1-5: Knit.
Row 6 [RS]: K7, [SKP, yo, k2tog, k7] to end. 127 sts.
Row 7 [WS]: Purl.
Row 8 [RS]: K6, [SKP, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k5] to last st, k1.
Row 9 [WS]: Purl.
Row 10 [RS]: K5, [SKP, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k3] to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 11 [WS]: Purl.
Row 12 [RS]: K4, [SKP, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k1] to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 13 [WS]: Purl.
Rows 14-16: Knit.
Row 17 [WS]: K to last 2 sts, k2tog. 126 sts.
Row 18 [RS]: [Sl 1, yo, k2tog, k1] to last 2 sts, yo, k2tog.
Row 19 [WS]: Purl.
Repeat Rows 18-19 3 more times.

Work in plain stockinette (k all RS rows, p all WS rows) for 10 inches, or until length of work is equal to length of robe front from hem to about three-quarters of the length of body of the front.

Next row [RS]: [K2tog] across. 63 sts.
Following row [WS]: P.
Next row [RS]: K3, [yo, k2tog, k1] across.
Following row [WS]: P.

Work in stockinette (K all RS rows, p all WS rows) until piece is equal to length of front from hem to safety pin.

K 4 rows.
Next row [RS]: K3, [yo, k2tog, k1] across.
P 1 row.
K 2 rows.

Work shoulder shaping as for front.

FINISHING
Soak and gently block all pieces. Sew front of robe to back, leaving gaps near the top to create armholes. Sew the shoulder straps together. Weave in ends.

Knit a length of Edging A sufficient to trim the lower edge of the robe. Knit two lengths of Edging B sufficient to reach from the lower edge of front seams of the robe, over the shoulder, to the lower edge of the back of the armhole.

Sew Edging A to the hem of the robe. Sew one strip of Edging B to each seam line from the hem, along the shoulder strap, and down to the lower edge of the armhole.

Crochet two 20-inch lengths of chain. Run these through the holes at the neckline and the waist; tie in back.

BONNET
Crown
Using smaller needles, CO 11 sts.
Row 1: S1 1 as if to p wyib, [k1, p1] to end.
Rep Row 1 until work measures 1.5 inches.
BO.

Back/Sides
CO 17 sts.
Row 1: S1 1 as if to p wyib, [k1, p1] to end.
Rep Row 1 until work measures 6.5 inches.
BO.

FINISHING
Sew one long edge of Back/Side strip to one long and two short edges of the Crown, easing in fullness as you go.

Looped Edging
CO 5 sts.

Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Sl 1, work next 3 sts as Looped Knitting, k1.

Repeat these two rows until you have worked a strip that will run completely around the outer edges of the assembled bonnet–front, sides and back.

Beginning at center back, sew looped edging to outer edge of RS of bonnet. See photos as a guide.

At lower corners of front opening, sew two lengths of ribbons to serve as ties.

CLOAK
Center
Using smaller needles, CO 66 sts.

Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: Knit.

Repeat Rows 1–5 44 times – there will be 23 raised and 22 depressed stripes. Though the fabric is reversible, the RS will be that which begins and ends with a raised stripe.

BO.

Lower Edge
Using smaller needles, CO 161 sts.
Rows 1-5: Knit.
Row 6 [RS]: K7, [SKP, yo, k2tog, k7] to end. 147 sts.
Row 7 [WS]: Purl.
Row 8 [RS]: K6, [SKP, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k5] to last st, k1.
Row 9 [WS]: Purl.
Row 10 [RS]: K5, [SKP, yo, k3, yo, k2tog, k3] to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 11 [WS]: Purl.
Row 12 [RS]: K4, [SKP, yo, k5, yo, k2tog, k1] to last 3 sts, k3.
Row 13 [WS]: Purl.
Rows 14-15: Knit.
BO.

FINISHING
Soak and gently block all pieces. Weave in ends.

Sew lower edge to center, spreading out the center ridges as you work to create a smooth seam.

Lace Edging
Knit a sufficient quantity of Edging A to trim the sides and lower edge of the robe, making sure edging will turn corners neatly, without curling. Sew long strip of edging from upper right corner of cloak, around the perimeter to the upper left corner. Take care to ease the edging at the corners and avoid curling.

Run a length of yarn through the upper edge of the cloak and gently gather the ridges together. Weave in gathering yarn on each edge to secure.

Knit a second length of Edging A sufficient to trim the gathered upper edge of the cloak center. Sew short strip of edging along RS of upper edge of cloak.

Sew equal lengths of ribbon to upper corners of robe to serve as neck ties. Sew two more lengths to right and left edges of robe, approximately at position of doll’s waist, to serve as front closures, using photos as a guide.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Franklin Habit is the Chicago-based proprietor of the popular knitting blog The Panopticon and author of It Itches: A Stash of Knitting Cartoons (Interweave Press).

He teaches and lectures on a variety of knitting topics, across the United States and internationally. His dolls are home-schooled, so that they run no risk of mixing with Barbies and picking up horrid accents.