by Weaverknits

All the yard-arms were tipped with a palid fire; and touched at each tri-pointed lightning-rod-end with three tapering white flames, each of the three tall masts was silently burning in that sulphurous air, like three gigantic wax tapers before an altar.

Herman Melville, Moby-Dick, Chapter CXIX, “The Candles”

Inspired by the imagery of St. Elmo’s fire (also known as the corpusants), an electrical event in the atmosphere during a thunderstorm, striking the Pequod as she closes in on the white whale, this long cardigan evokes the colors of the sea and the pale fire alighting on the masts.

The double-breasted shape evokes a sailor’s “monkey jacket”; however, I took the liberty of lengthening the traditional silhouette in light of second-mate Stubb’s evaluation of the best outerwear for wet weather:

“They laugh at long-togs, so, Flask; but seems to me, a long tailed coat ought always to be worn in all storms afloat. The tails tapering down that way, serve to carry off the water, d’ye see.” (Chapter CXXI, “Midnight—The Forecastle Bulwarks”)

The cardigan is worked in the round in one piece from the bottom up. The waist shaping of this cardigan is accomplished through stranded knitting. The naturally tighter fabric created by stranded knitting pulls in the fabric at the waist, creating a smaller circumference without changing the number of stitches. The sleeves and body are joined at the yoke. The front is then steeked, and the buttonbands are picked up and knit along the steek edges.

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X] (shown in size XS)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 32.5[37.5, 41, 48.5, 51.5, 54.25] inches, with fronts buttoned
Length: 32.5[33.5, 35, 36.5, 37.5, 38.5] inches
This cardigan is intended to fit with little or no positive ease. Choose a size close to your actual bust measurement.

MATERIALS
Yarn
The Fibre Company Canopy Worsted [50% baby alpaca, 30% merino, 20% viscose from bamboo; 100yd/91m per 50g skein]
[MC] Quetzal; 14[16, 19, 22, 24, 26] skeins
[CC] Fern; 3[4, 5, 6, 6, 7] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 set US #7/4.5mm double-point needles
1 32-inch US #7/4.5mm circular needle
1 16-inch US #7/4.5mm circular needle
1 spare circular or set of double-point needles, US #7/4.5mm or smaller
Note: Larger sizes may prefer to also have a 40-inch and/or 24-inch circular needle in size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions
Yarn needle
Stitch markers
Safety pin or split ring marker
Stitch holders or waste yarn
Sewing needle and thread
12 buttons, approx. five-eighths inch diameter
Buttons shown are from Shipyard Point Glassworks. Buy buttons after sweater is complete to ensure correct size.

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

m1L (make 1 left): Insert left needle from back to front under horizontal strand between stitch just worked and the next stitch on the left needle. Knit this strand through the front loop. 1 st increased.

Directions for Elizabeth Zimmermann's Sewn Bind Off can be found here.

Blocking:
Information about blocking can be found here and here.

Steeks:
Depending on your yarn choice, the steeks can be sewn or crocheted. I highly recommend using sewn steeks if you work this cardigan in a yarn that is not particularly “woolly.” If the yarn won’t felt easily, it’s better to sew your steeks rather than crochet them. I found that the yarn used in the sample is sticky enough, and the steeks are generous enough, for crocheted steeks to hold; I used a Shetland yarn to crochet my steeks.

Tutorial for sewn steeks.

Tutorial for crocheted steeks.

DIRECTIONS

Set-up Round: K5, [p3, k5] 22[26, 30, 32, 34, 36] times (to last 9 sts), place steek marker, k9.
This round sets pattern for lower band: first 181[213, 245, 261, 277, 293] sts are worked in 5x3 Rib as set, last 9 sts of round form steek and are worked in stockinette st.

Work 3 more rounds in pattern as set.

First Colorwork Band:
Rounds 1-4: K5 using MC, [p3 using CC, k5 using MC] to steek marker, work steek sts following Steek Chart.
Note: From this point on, when working colorwork bands, work steek sts following Steek Chart. When working using MC only, work steek sts in stockinette st.

Rounds 5-30: K5 using MC, [k3 using CC, k5 using MC] to steek marker, work in pattern to end.

Rounds 31-38: Work following Chart A to steek marker, work in pattern to end.

Break CC.

Shape Lower Body:
Using MC, continue as follows:
Rounds 1-12: K all sts.

Round 13: K10, [k2tog, k14] 10[12, 14, 15, 16, 17] times, k2tog, k18. 179[209, 239, 254, 269, 284] sts.

Rounds 14-18: K all sts.

Round 19: K9, [k2tog, k13] 10[12, 14, 15, 16, 17] times, k2tog, k18. 168[196, 224, 238, 252, 266]

Sizes XS, S Only:
Rounds 20-24: K all sts.
Round 25: K9, [k2tog, k13] 10[12, -, -, -, -] times, k2tog, k17. 157[183, -, -, -, -] sts.
Rounds 26-28: K all sts.

Size M Only:
Rounds 20-24: K all sts.
Round 25: K3, [k2tog, k7] 23 times, k2tog, k12. 200 sts.
Rounds 26-28: K all sts.

Sizes L, 1X, 2X Only:
Rounds 20-28: K all sts.

Second Colorwork Band:

Sizes XS, S, L, 2X Only:
Rounds 1-2: K5[5, -, 6, -, 7] using MC, [p3 using CC, k10 using MC] 4[5, -, 7, -, 8] times, [p3 using CC, k13 using MC] twice, [p3 using CC, k10 using MC] 4[5, -, 7, -, 8] times, p3 using CC, k4[4, -, 6, -, 7] using MC, work in pattern to end.

Rounds 3-4: K5[5, -, 6, -, 7] using MC, [p3 using CC, k4 using MC, k2 using CC, k4 using MC] 5[6, -, 8, -, 9] times, k3 using MC, p3 using CC, k3 using MC,  [k4 using MC, k2 using CC, k4 using MC , p3 using CC] 5[6, -, 8, -, 9] times, k4[4, -, 6, -, 7] using MC, work in pattern to end.

Rounds 5-28: K5[5, -, 6, -, 7] using MC, [k3 using CC, k4 using MC, k2 using CC, k4 using MC] 5[6, -, 8, -, 9] times, k3 using MC, k3 using CC, k3 using MC,  [k4 using MC, k2 using CC, k4 using MC , k3 using CC] 5[6, -, 8, -, 9] times, k4[4, -, 6, -, 7] using MC, work in pattern to end.

Rounds 29-31: K5[5, -, 6, -, 7] using MC, [k3 using CC, k10 using MC] 4[5, -, 7, -, 8] times, [k3 using CC, k13 using MC] twice, [k3 using CC, k10 using MC] 4[5, -, 7, -, 8] times, k3 using CC, k4[4, -, 6, -, 7] using MC, work in pattern to end.

Rounds 32-39: K0[0, -, 1, -, 2] using MC, work 13 sts of Chart B 5[6, -, 8, -, 9] times, k3 using MC, work 13 sts of Chart B once, k3 using MC, work 13 sts of Chart B 5[6, -, 8, -, 9] times (note: for sizes XS and S, last repeat of Chart B will end on 12th st); k0[0, -, 1, -, 2] using MC, work in pattern to end.

Sizes M, 1X Only:
Rounds 1-2: K3 using MC, [p3 using CC, k10 using MC] -[-, 14, -, 18, -] times, p3 using CC, k3 using MC, work in pattern to end.

Rounds 3-4: K3 using MC, [p3 using CC, k4 using MC, k2 using CC, k4 using MC] -[-, 14, -, 18, -] times, p3 using CC, k3 using MC, work in pattern to end.

Rounds 5-28: K3 using MC, [k3 using CC, k4 using MC, k2 using CC, k4 using MC] -[-, 14, -, 18, -] times, k3 using CC, k3 using MC, work in pattern to end.

Rounds 29-31: K3 using MC, [k3 using CC, k10 using MC] -[-, 14, -, 18, -] times, p3 using CC, k3 using MC, work in pattern to end.

Rounds 32-39: Work following Chart B, working outlined pattern repeat section -[-, 14, -, 18, -] times; work in pattern to end.

All Sizes:
Break CC. Continue in stockinette st using MC until work measures 5 inches from end of second colorwork band or desired length to underarm.

Next Round: K28[35, 39, 48, 51, 55], BO 8[8, 8, 10, 10, 10] sts, k75[88, 96, 113, 120, 127] (76[89, 97, 114, 121, 128] sts on right needle after bound off sts), BO 8[8, 8, 10, 10, 10] sts, k to end (37[43, 48, 56, 60, 63] sts on right needle after bound off sts). 141[167, 184, 218, 232, 246] sts: 65[78, 87, 104, 111, 118] sts for combined fronts, 76[89, 97, 114, 121, 128] sts for back.

Do not break yarn. Set aside and work sleeves; begin sleeve with new ball of yarn.

Set-up Round: [K5, p3] to end.
This round sets 5x3 Rib for sleeve. Continue in pattern until work measures  15[15, 15, 13, 13, 13] inches, or 3.5[3.5, 3.5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5] inches less than desired length to underarm.
Note: Sleeves are designed to be quite long. As written, sleeves will measure 18.5 inches to underarm for all sizes. Yoke is quite deep, so underarm will sit lower than usual.

When shaping sleeve, switch to short circular needle in larger size if desired, once enough sts have been increased to move comfortably around the needle.

Sizes L, 1X, 2X Only:
Next Round: [K3, m1R, k2, p3] to end. -[-, -, 63, 72, 72] sts.

K 5 rounds.

Next Round: [K3, m1L, k3, p3] to end. -[-, -, 70, 80, 80] sts.

K 5 rounds.

All Sizes:
Ribbed portion of sleeve is complete. From this point, sleeve will be worked in stockinette st.

Increase Round: M1L, k to last st, m1R, k1.
K 3[3, 3, 5, 5, 5] rounds.
Repeat these 4[4, 5, 6, 5, 3] rounds 4[4, 3, 2, 3, 5] times more. 58[58, 64, 76, 88, 92] sts.

K 0[0, 0, 2, 0, 2] rounds.
Next Round: K to last 4[4, 4, 5, 5, 5] sts; BO next 8[8, 8, 10, 10, 10] sts, removing marker.
Break yarn and place remaining 50[50, 56, 66, 78, 82] sts on spare needle(s).

Make a second sleeve in the same way. Break yarn but do not remove sts of second sleeve from working needle(s).

Joining Round: K to first set of bound off sts, k all sts of one sleeve, k to next set of bound off sts, k all sts of second sleeve, k to end of round. 241[267, 296, 350, 388, 410] sts.

Work in stockinette st until work measures 4[4.5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7] inches from Joining Round.

Decrease Round 1: [K1, k2tog] to 1[0, 2, 2, 1, 2] sts before steek marker, k to end. 164[181, 201, 237, 262, 277] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 6[7, 8, 9, 10, 10.5] inches from Joining Round.

Decrease Round 2: [K1, k2tog] to 2[1, 0, 0, 1, 1] sts before steek marker, k to end. 113[124, 137, 161, 178, 188] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 7[8, 9.5, 10.5, 12, 12.5] inches from Joining Round.

Decrease Round 3: [K1, k2tog] to 2[1, 2, 2, 1, 2] sts before steek marker, k to end.
79[86, 95, 111, 122, 129] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 8[9, 10.5, 12, 13, 14] inches from Joining Round.

Sizes XS, S, M Only:
Decrease Round 4: K0[2, 2, -, -, -], [k1, k2tog] to 1[3, 3, -, -, -] sts before steek marker, k to end. 56[62, 68, -, -, -] sts.

Sizes L, 2X Only:
Decrease Round 4: K2tog, k2tog, [k1, k2tog] to 2 sts before steek marker, k2tog, k to end.-[-, -, 76, -, 88] sts.

Size 1X Only:
Decrease Round 4: [K1, k2tog] to 2 sts before steek marker, k2tog, k to end. 84 sts.

All Sizes:
K 1 round.

Shape back neck using short rows as follows:
Row 1 [RS]: K30[35, 40, 47, 54, 57], W&T.
Row 2 [WS]: P13[17, 21, 27, 33, 35], W&T.

Note: When working short rows that follow, pick up wraps and work them together with wrapped sts; see list of techniques [link].

Row 3 [RS]: K17[21, 25, 32, 37, 39], W&T.
Row 4 [WS]: P21[25, 29, 36, 41, 43], W&T.
Row 5 [RS]: K to end. Resume working in the round.

Neckband:
Round 1: K all sts.
Rounds 2-7: [K1 using MC, p1 using CC] to 1 st before steek marker, k1 using MC, work last 9 sts following Steek Chart. Break CC at end of Round 7.
Round 8: K all sts using MC.
BO all sts using sewn bind off (see Pattern Notes).

Secure and cut steek (see Pattern Notes).
Fold and steam steek facings toward WS of cardigan, forming fold 4-4.5 sts from cut edge. Sts for front bands will be picked up along column of sts at each fold.

Buttonhole Band:
Using long circular needle and MC, with RS facing and beginning at lower right front corner, pick up and k 2 sts for every 3 rows along right front edge.

K 8 rows, ending with a RS row.

Buttonhole Row [WS]: K5, yo, k2tog, [k16, yo, k2tog] five times, k to end.

K 9 rows, ending with a RS row.

Repeat Buttonhole Row.

K 7 rows, ending with a RS row.
Loosely BO all sts.

Button Band:
Using long circular needle and MC, with RS facing and beginning at upper left front corner, pick up and k 2 sts for every 3 rows along left front edge.

K 26 rows, ending with a RS row. Loosely BO all sts.

Weave in ends. Block front bands if desired.
Sew buttons to button band opposite buttonholes.
Hand or machine sew steek facings to inside of cardigan.

Ann Weaver has been designing handknits since 2007 while working a growing string of seemingly unrelated jobs. She recently put out her first self-published collection of patterns, titled Craft Work Knit.

You can read more about Ann on her website and on her blog.