by Jennifer "Jennigma" Leigh

Viburnum is a family of shrubs highly variable in form, but universally easy to grow. There are Viburnums for every season, and almost every climate. Most have showy flowers, many have bright berries in the fall, some are deliciously fragrant, but their primary value in the garden is as a reliable background element. Varieties can be so different in size, leaf shape, and coloration that you might never recognize them as cousins, but they all share a carefree habit and a certain grace of form.

This pattern is similar to its namesake in that it uses the same chart and basic moebius construction to make very different neck wraps. The chart is reversible and blends seamlessly across the central cast-on of the moebius so the cast-on disappears into the pattern, showcasing the one-sided nature of the moebius design.

I have worked it in three weights of handspun: a single-ply lavender DK weight silk/merino blend, a two-ply bulky grey handspun Romeldale wool, and a spindle-spun violet beaded laceweight pygora/polwarth/silk plyed with commercial silk thread. This is only the beginning of the possibilities, however; Viburnum can be adapted to any length or size of moebius and any weight of yarn to good effect.

SIZE
Bulky[DK, Laceweight]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Edge to edge: 9[9, 9] inches
Diameter: 20[18, 24] inches

Bulky Pat Green Big Batt drumcarder Diz with 1/4" hole Schacht Matchless wheel with 15.5:1 ratio; [double drive] Schacht lazy kate Swift to skein off yarn for fulling wash DK Schacht Matchless wheel with 15.5:1 ratio; [double drive] Swift to skein off yarn for fulling wash Lace Spindlewood 1.1 oz Tibetan supported spindle Canadian Production Wheel for plying Swift to skein off yarn for steaming Steamer basket and pan of boiling water for finish steaming

Commercial Yarn Alternative
Mountain Meadow Sheridan 3 ply bulky [100% Merino; 96yd/87 m per 100g/3.5oz skein] color: Natural Grey Medium; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
1 40-inch US 11/8 mm circular needle

Laceweight (shown below)
Fiber:
Rainbow Farms Pygora [70% Pygora & 28% Polwarth & 2% silk, batt]; color: one of a kind; 2 oz.

Plyed with: Fiber Attic [100% spun silk; 225 yd/206m per 10g skein]

Finished Yarn:
Wraps per inch: 20
Ply: handspun single plied to balance (30 degrees twist) with 60/2 commercial silk thread, and steamed to set twist.
Yardage used: 225 yds
Drafting method: Softly spun (30 degrees twist) in supported long draw with occasional double drafting from a batt.

Tools
5[7, 11] plain stitch markers
1 different "end of round" stitch marker
(laceweight only) two tubes (approx 40 g) silver lined crystal 6/0 Czech glass beads
(laceweight only) 1 yard of crochet cotton or other strong, fine cord that won't stain the work, for blocking
yarn needle

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Video tutorials:
- Moebius cast-on
- Managing needles while knitting a moebius

Lace bind-off:
K2, slip these two stitches back to left needle and k2tog tbl; *k1, slip two stitches back to left needle and k2tog tbl.
Repeat from * until all stitches are worked.

Note that the stitch count changes through the charts.

DIRECTIONS

Spread the stitches around the needle and arrange the loops so they cross only one time. If there are not enough stitches to comfortably spread around the cable you may make a third loop without stitches to take in some slack. This video may help.

Place marker for start of round and begin working round one of the chart, inserting a marker after each repeat. You will be knitting into the first loop made on the cable, not the slip-knot.

Note that the stitch count for this chart varies from row to row. The odd numbered rows have 24 sts, while the even numbered rows have 22. You cast-on 22 stitches for each repeat, but after the first round you will have 24 sts on the needle for each repeat.

After 3[4, 6] repeats of the chart you will encounter the slip-knot which began the cast-on. Place a marker and continue working the chart around. Note that you are now knitting one half stitch off the columns established by the first half-round; effectively knitting into the "bottoms" of the stitches as if you were picking up from a provisional cast-on. This may look a bit odd for the first row but will blend nicely as you continue to work as long as you are careful not to twist stitches.

After an additional 3[4, 6] repeats you will encounter the marker for the start of the round.

Continue, working the chart as set. For the Laceweight version only, place beads as noted on chart; otherwise work stitches as indicated on chart.

Continue as established, until you have completed 2[3, 3] full repeats of the chart.

Laceweight version only:
Work lace edging chart 2 around.
Work until both rows of chart are complete. 408 stitches.
Final round: [(Yo, k1) 11 times, yo, (p1, k1) three times, (yo, p1) 11 times, yo, (k1, p1) three times] around. 696 sts.
Bind-off using the Lace Bind-Off (See notes).

Bulky, DK versions:
[K7, (p1, k1) twice, p5, (k1, p1) three times] around.
Bind-off using the Lace Bind-Off (See notes).

FINISHING
Break yarn and weave in all ends.

Bulky and DK versions:
Wet or wash the cowl.
Gently shape the back of the cowl flat, letting the twist cross over the top.
Allow to dry completely.

Laceweight version:
Wet or wash the cowl.
Begin blocking it by pinning 12 points evenly around a circle. Tie the cord in a bow loosely around the unpinned work such that the ends align with the moebius twist. Spread the other half of the cowl over the cord, stretching and pinning the other 12 points out to match the first 12. Re-tie the knot in the cord to draw the center of the cowl in snug, without pulling out the pins.

Allow to dry completely before removing cord and pins.

Jennifer "Jennigma" Leigh has been knitting since she was three, when her grandmother taught her one summer while sitting on the beach. She lives in Seattle, WA with dogs, cats, her son, her sweetheart, and an occasional visiting horse or cow from the farm across the street. In addition to knitting she is working on a project she calls "Hack Your Clothes," the goal of which is to help people reclaim the skills needed to make off-the-shelf clothes fit their bodies and personalities, and perhaps to make new things from scratch.

See more at her blog and her project website.