Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Title
beauty shot Tangy

Most of my sock-designing inspiration comes from certain songs that I really like. This one is no different. Inspired from the song Mirror by Ellie Goulding (from The Hunger Games: Catching Fire Soundtrack), these socks are mirror images.

When I started knitting these I had some second thoughts, because they're so asymmetrical and it looked awkward. But as it grew, and I started to get a feel for the pattern and placement, I realized that what this sock needed was its other half. We are not complete without our reflections, right?

Along the insides of the socks is a strip of garter stitch. There is a surprising lack of socks with this versatile stitch, so I decided to remedy it. With garter stitch as my base, I knew I wanted something lace to go with it, partially because I needed practice designing it, and also because garter and lace look so nice together. Even with those two things down and ready, I still needed something to fill the outside edges with. At first I shoved twisted traveling stitches out of my mind -- I do way too many of them and I had decided to take a little of a break -- but without meaning to, I snuck them in there. I didn't have much debate as what I was to do with the gusset. The Cat Bordhi sockitecture just fit this design.

What you see here doesn't have to be what your sock looks like, though. Mix things up a bit: shift the columns, work the single knit stitch up the instep through the back loop to add another layer of sophistication, or add a purl column instead of having the garter stitch collide with the lace panel; the possibilities are yours to explore.

spacer model: Miss Juliet Poe
spacer photos: Josiah Bain
 

SIZE
Adult S[M, L]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Sock Circumference: 7[8, 9] in
Foot Length: Adjustable to fit
Leg length: Adjustable; sock leg shown is 6 inches from top of the heel flap

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MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer Knit Picks Stroll Tonal [75% merino wool 25% nylon; 462 yd/422 m per 100g skein]; color: Thunderhead; 1 skein

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer US #1/2.25mm needles for working in the round: DPNs, 1 long circular or 2 short circulars

Notions
spacer stitch markers (optional)
spacer cable needle (optional)
spacer yarn needle

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GAUGE

32 sts/44 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Instructions for Judy's Magic Cast On can be found here.

Directions for Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off can be found here.

The trick for good fit in toe-up socks is the length you knit before you start the gussets. Here is the formula I used in this pattern (based off of the similar one in Melissa Morgan-Oakes' book, Toe-Up Two at-a-time Socks). Plug in your numbers (remembering to subtract about 10% for negative ease) and solve the formula to find out how much you should knit before starting to increase for your gussets.

Toe-To-Gusset Formula
S = desired sock foot length
R (number of rows in the gusset and heel turn) = 40[44, 48] rows
RPI = your rows per inch; you can measure them on the sole of your sock
T = total length of sock before beginning gussets
S – (R ÷ RPI) = T

CT2L: Sl1 to cable needle and hold in front. K1tbl, k1tbl from the cable needle.
CT2R: Sl1 to cable needle and hold in back. K1tbl, k1tbl from the cable needle.
CT2PL: Sl1 to cable needle and hold in front. P1, k1tbl from the cable needle.
CT2PR: Sl1 to cable needle and hold in back. K1tbl, p1 from the cable needle.

spacerCharts
The charts for this pattern are very large and fit on a letter-sized page.
Click here and print the resulting page.


DIRECTIONS
Toe
With Judy's Magic Cast On, CO 28[32, 36] sts -- 14[16, 18] sts each for instep and sole. Place markers for start of round and midpoint of round.

Rnd 1: Knit one round.
Rnd 2: [K1, m1, k to 1 st before marker, m1, k1] twice. 4 sts increased.

Rep Rnds 1-2 until you have a total of 56[64, 72] sts, 28[32, 36] sts each on sole and instep.

Place a marker or arrange your stitches so that sole and instep are divided.

Left Sock Only:
Setup rnd: K1[2, 3], kfb 4 times, k to end of round. 60[68, 76] sts.

Rnd 1: P1[2, 3], work Chart A over next 8 sts, p1[2, 3], k1, p3, work Chart B over next 10 sts, p to end of instep; k to end of round.

Rnd 2: P1[2, 3], work Chart A over next 8 st, p1[2, 3], k1, p3, work Chart B over next 10 sts, k to end of round.

Right Sock Only:
Setup rnd: K to the last 5[6, 7] sts of instep; kfb 4 times, k to end of round. 60[68, 76] sts.

Rnd 1: P8[10, 12], work Chart B over next 10 sts, p3, k1, p1[2, 3], work Chart A over next 8 sts, p1[2, 3]; k to end of round.

Rnd 2: K8[10, 12], work Chart B over next 10 sts, p3, k1, p1[2, 3], work Chart A over next 8 sts, p1[2, 3]; k to end of round.

Both Socks: rep Rnds 1-2 until piece measures appropriate length (see Notes).

Rnd 1: Work instep in pattern as set; k13[15, 17], m1, pm, k2, pm, m1, k13[15, 17]. 2 sts increased.

Rnd 2: Work instep in pattern as set; k to end of round.

Rnd 3: Work instep in pattern as set; k to the marker, sm, m1, k to next marker, m1, sm, k to end of rnd.

Rnd 4: Work instep in pattern as set; k to end of round.

Rep Rnds 3-4 until there are 28[32, 36] sts between the markers, ending with rnd 2.

Heel Turn
Row 1 [RS]: K to 2 st before second marker, w+t.
Row 2 [WS]: P24[28, 32], w+t.
Row 3 [RS]: K22[26, 30], w+t.
Row 4 [WS]: P20[24, 28], w+t.
Row 5 [RS]: K18[22, 26], w+t.
Row 6 [WS]: P16[20, 24], w+t.
Row 7 [RS]: K14[18, 22], w+t.
Row 8 [WS]: P12[16, 20], w+t.
Row 9 [RS]: K10[14, 18], w+t.
Row 10 [WS]: P8[12, 16], w+t.

Size M and L only
Row 11 [RS]: K -[10, 14], w+t.
Row 12 [WS]: P -[8, 12], w+t.

Size L only
Row 13 [RS]: P -[-, 10], w+t.
Row 14 [WS]: P -[-, 8], w+t.

Heel Flap
Row 1 [RS]: Sl1, k to the second marker, working wrapped sts together with their wraps, remove marker, turn.
Row 2 [WS]: Sl1, p to first marker, working wrapped sts together with their wraps, remove marker, turn.
Row 3 [RS]: (Sl1, k1) 13[15, 17] times, sl1, ssk, turn.
Row 4 [WS]: Sl1, p26[30, 34], p2tog, turn.
Rep these two rows 13[15, 17] more times, until all the sts on the sides of the sole have been decreased away, ending with Row 4. 60[68, 76] sts.

From here, you'll begin to work in the round again.

Setup: Sl1, k to end of heel. This is the new start of round. Place a marker or rearrange sts as you wish.

Leg
Next rnd, Left sock only: Work across instep in pattern as set; [p1, k1 tbl] to end of round.

Next rnd, Right sock only: Work across instep in pattern as set; [k1 tbl, p1] to end of round.

Rep this rnd until the ribbing on back of leg measures 1 inch.

Left sock only:
Rnds 1-7: Work across instep in pattern as set, [p2, k2] to end of round.

Rnd 8: Work across instep in pattern as set: [k2, p2] to end of round.

Right Sock only
Rnds 1-7: Work across instep in pattern as set, [k2, p2] to end of round.

Rnd 8: Work across instep in pattern as set: [p2, k2] to end of round.

Both socks:
Rep these 8 rounds until leg measures 5 inches from top of the heel flap, or 1 inch less than desired length, ending with row 3 of Chart A.

Cuff
Ribbing round, Left Sock only: Work Chart C Left for appropriate size across instep; [p2, k2] to end of round.

Ribbing round, Right Sock only: Work Chart C Right for appropriate size across instep; [k2, p2] to end of round.

Work in pattern as set until cuff measures 1 inch, or until desired length.

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FINISHING
BO all sts with Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off.

Block and weave in ends.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Josiah is 15 and has been knitting for as long as he can remember. When he isn't knitting (yes, sometimes he has to take a break) he reads, watches The Hobbit or Doctor Who, or bikes and runs with his dad. He has one cat, two parents, four siblings (two of which are under four), and about a hundred books.

Although he currently resides in his Mind Palace, you can visit him on his blog.

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