Knitty: little purls of wisdom
Miss Babs Hand-Dyed yarn & Fibers
Title
beauty shot

Tangy

One of my favorite sources of knitting inspiration is period movies, and lately I've found my eyes drawn not to the cute, fitted, cropped sweaters, but to the practical, cozy ones. The sweaters with pockets deep enough to hold a few surprises and casual collars, I couldn't get them out of my mind so I decided to make my own version. Characters in movies wore their cardigans to tend their livestock or to work in their gardens, but I'll be wearing mine curled up on the couch while watching more movies!

Although this cardigan has a classic look, its seamless construction is thoroughly modern. The body is knit from the bottom up with the pocket linings joined as you go. Collar stitches are put on hold at the top of the fronts, and the shoulders are joined using a three needle bind off. The collar stitches are then removed from the holders and additional stitches are picked up to create the perfect face framing collar. Next, stitches are picked up around the armscye, and sleeves are knit from the top down, using short rows to shape the cap.

spacer model + photos: Andi Satterlund
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SIZE
Women's XS [S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
shown in size M with -2" of ease

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 30[34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54] inches
Length: 24[24, 24.5, 25, 25, 26, 26] inches

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MATERIALS
Yarn

spacer Cascade 220 Heathers [100% wool; 220 yd/m per 100g skein]; color: Birch Heather; 4[5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7] skeins

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 set US #7/4.5mm double-point needles
spacer 1 16-inch US #7/4.5mm circular needle
spacer 1 32-inch US #7/4.5mm circular needle

Notions
spacer 10 1/2-inch buttons
spacer 4 stitch markers
spacer stitch holders or scrap yarn
spacer yarn needle

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GAUGE

19 sts/26 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
 

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Short row wraps are picked up and knit together with the stitch they wrap. See a tutorial on short rows here.

DIRECTIONS

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BODY
CO 166[178, 194, 214, 234, 254, 270] sts.

Row 1 [WS]: *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 2 [RS]: *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 3: Repeat Row 1.

Row 4: P2, ssk, yo, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Rows 5-6: Repeat Rows 1-2.

Row 7: K2, p2, k2, purl to last 6 sts, k2, p2, k2.

Row 8: P2, k2, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], kfb 24[24, 24, 24, 24, 28, 28] and slip new sts onto holder held in back as they are created, pm X, k9[12, 14, 19, 22, 23, 25], pm A, k80[86, 94, 104, 114, 124, 132], pm B, k9[12, 14, 19, 22, 23, 25], pm Y, kfb 24[24, 24, 24, 24, 28, 28] and slip new sts onto holder held in back, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], p2, k2, p2. 166[178, 194, 208, 228, 248, 264] sts on needles with 24[24, 24, 24, 24, 28, 28] sts on each holder.

Left Pocket Lining
Place 24[24, 24, 24, 24, 28, 28] sts on holder on second sets of needles and join new ball of yarn. This will be the back face of the pocket with stockinette facing the inside of the pocket and reverse stockinette on the wrong side of the sweater.

Row 1 [WS]: P to end.

Row 2: Sl1, k to end.

Row 3: Sl1, p to end.

Rows 4-37: Repeat Rows 2-3.

Row 38: Repeat Row 2.

Place sts back on holder.

Right Pocket Lining
Repeat as for Left Pocket Lining

BODY cont'd
Row 9 [WS]: K2, p2, k2, purl to last 6 sts, k2, p2, k2.
Row 10 [RS]: P2, k2, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, k22[22, 22, 22, 22, 26, 26], pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, knit to marker Y, pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, k22[22, 22, 22, 22, 26, 26], pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], p2, k2, p2.

Repeat Rows 9-10 twice, then rep Row 9 once.

Row 16 [Buttonhole Row]: P2, ssk, yo, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, k22[22, 22, 22, 22, 26, 26], pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, knit to marker Y, pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, k22[22, 22, 22, 22, 26, 26], pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], p2, k2, p2.

Repeat Rows 9-10 5 times, then work Row 9 once more.
Repeat Row 16.
Repeat Rows 9-10 once, then repeat Row 9.

Row 32 [Waist Shaping Row]: P2, k2, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, k22[22, 22, 22, 22, 26, 26], pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, knit to 3 sts before marker A, ssk, k2, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker B, ssk, k2, k2tog, knit to marker Y, pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, k22[22, 22, 22, 22, 26, 26], pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], p2, k2, p2. 4 sts decreased.

Work Rows 9-10 once, Row 9 once, then work Row 32 once. 4 sts decreased
Work Rows 9-10 once, work Row 9 once.

Row 40: P2, ssk, yo, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, (p2, k2) 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] times, p2, pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, knit to 3 sts before marker A, ssk, k2, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker B, ssk, k2, k2tog, knit to marker Y, pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, (p2, k2) 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] times, p2, pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], p2, k2, p2. 4 sts decreased.

Row 41: K2, p2, k2, p5[5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11], (k2, p2) 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] times, k2, purl to marker X, p1, (k2, p2) 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] times, k2, p5[5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11], k2, p2, k2.

Row 42: P2, k2, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, (p2, k2) 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] times, p2, pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, knit to marker Y, pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, (p2, k2) 5[5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6] times, p2, pick up st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], p2, k2, p2.

Work Row 41 once.

Row 44: P2, k2, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], pick up 1 st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle pick up, k1 and pass previous stitch over to BO, BO 22 (22, 22, 22, 22, 26, 26) sts in pattern, pick up 1 st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle and pass previous st over to BO, knit to 3 sts before marker A, ssk, k2, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker B, ssk, k2 k2tog, knit to marker Y, pick up 1 st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle pick up, k1 and pass previous stitch over to BO, BO 22 (22, 22, 22, 22, 26, 26) sts in pattern, pick up 1 st from slipped edge of pocket and k2tog with next st on left needle and pass previous st over to BO, k4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], p2, k2, p2. 4 sts decreased

Row 45: K2, p2, k2, p4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], remove 24 (24, 24, 24, 24, 28, 28) pocket back sts and purl, purl to marker Y, remove 24 (24, 24, 24, 24, 28, 28) pocket back sts and purl, p4[4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10], k2, p2, k2. Remove markers X and Y.

Row 46: P2, k2, p2, knit to last 6 sts, p2, k2, p2.
Row 47: K2, p2, k2, purl to last 6 sts, k2, p2, k2.

Row 48: P2, k2, p2, knit to 3 sts before marker A, ssk, k2, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker B, ssk, k2, k2tog, knit to last 6 sts, p2, k2, p2. 4 sts decreased

Work Row 47 once, then work Rows 46-47 once.

Rows 52: P2, ssk, yo, p2, knit to 3 sts before marker A, ssk, k2, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker B, ssk, k2, k2tog, knit to last 6 sts, p2, k2, p2. 4 sts decreased.
142[154, 170, 1890, 210, 230, 246] sts

Waist shaping, sizes XS [S, M] only:
Keeping buttonbands correct, work 11 rows even.
Next Row: P2, ssk, yo, p2, knit to last 6 sts, p2, k2, p2.
142[154, 170] sts

Waist shaping, sizes L [1X, 2X, 3X] only:
Keeping buttonbands correct, work 3 rows even.
Next Row: P2, k2, p2, knit to 3 sts before marker A, ssk, k2, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before marker B, ssk, k2, k2tog, knit to last 6 sts, p2, k2, p2. 4 sts decreased

Keeping buttonbands correct, work 7 rows even.
Next Row: P2, ssk, yo, p2, knit to last 6 sts, p2, k2, p2.
186[206, 226, 242] sts

All Sizes: continue to Upper Body and at the same time, and throughout underarm bind off, keep making a yo-buttonhole every 12th row until 10 buttonholes have been completed.

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UPPER BODY
Inc Row [RS]: Work to 1 st before marker A, m1, k2, m1, knit to 1 st before marker B, m1, k2, m1, work to end. 4 sts increased

Keeping buttonbands correct, work 17[13, 9, 7, 7, 9, 7] rows even.

Repeat the last 18[14, 10, 8, 8, 10, 8] rows 1[2, 3, 4, 4, 3, 4] more times. 4[8, 12, 16, 16, 12, 16] sts increased.

Work 14[8, 8, 8, 6, 8, 4] rows even. 150[166, 186, 206, 226, 242, 262] sts.

Underarm Bind Off:
Next Row: Work to 2[4, 5, 7, 9, 11, 15] sts before marker A, BO 4[8, 10, 14, 18, 22, 30], k68[72, 80, 86, 92, 96, 98], BO 4[8, 10, 14, 18, 22, 30], work to end. Place back and right front on holders.

Fronts have 37[39, 43, 46, 49, 51, 52] sts
Back has 68[72, 80, 86, 92, 96, 98] sts

Left Front Armhole Shaping
Next Row [WS]: K2, p2, k2, purl to end.

Next Row: K1, k2tog, knit to last 6 sts, p2, k2, p2.

Repeat the last 2 rows 0[1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5] more times.

Next Row: K2, p2, k2, purl to end. 36[37, 41, 43, 45, 46, 46] sts.

Left Front Collar Shaping:
Next Row [RS]: K to last 11 sts, m1, k1, (p2, k2) 2 times, p2.

Next Row: K2, (p2, k2) 2 times, purl to end.

Next Row: K to last 12 sts, m1, k2, (p2, k2) 2 times, p2.

Next Row: K2, (p2, k2) 2 times, purl to end.
Next Row: K to last 10 sts, (p2, k2) 2 times, p2.
Repeat the last 2 rows once.

Next Row: K2, (p2, k2) 2 times, purl to end.
Next Row: K to last 15 sts, m1, k1, (p2, k2) 3 times, p2.
Next Row: K2, (p2, k2) 3 times, purl to end.
Next Row: K to last 16 sts, m1, k2, (p2, k2) 3 times, p2.

Next Row: K2, (p2, k2) 3 times, purl to end.
Next Row: K to last 14 sts, (p2, k2) 3 times, p2.
Repeat the last 2 rows once.

Next Row: K2, (p2, k2) 3 times, purl to end.
Next Row: K to last 18 sts, (p2, k2) 4 times, p2.
Next Row: K2, (p2, k2) 4 times, purl to end
Repeat the last 2 rows 3 more times.

Next Row: K to last 22 sts, (p2, k2) 5 times, p2.
Next Row: K2, (p2, k2) 5 times, purl to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows 3 more times. 40[41, 45, 47, 49, 50, 50] sts.

Sizes XS and S only, move on to the Left Front Shoulder.

All other sizes:
Next Row: K to last 26 sts, (p2, k2) 6 times, p2.
Next Row: K2, (p2, k2) 6 times, purl to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows twice.

Left Front Shoulder
Next Row: K to last 22[22, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26] sts, (p2, k2) 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] times, p2.
Next Row: K2, (p2, k2) 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] times, purl to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows 1[1, 0, 1, 1, 2, 3] times.

Next Row: K to last 22[22, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26] sts, (p2, k2) 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] times, p2.
Next Row: K2, (p2, k2) 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] times and place these 22[22, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26] sts on hold for Collar, p9[9, 9, 10, 11, 12, 12], w&t.
Work 3 rows in St St.
Place 18[19, 19, 21, 23, 24, 24] sts on hold for Shoulder.

BACK
Remove BACK sts from holder and place on the needles.
Row 1 [WS]: P.
Row 2: K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows 0[1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5] more times. 66[68, 76, 80, 84, 86, 86] sts.

Work 43[43, 47, 49, 49, 51, 53] rows in St St.

Next Row: K18[19, 19, 21, 23, 24, 24], BO 30[30, 38, 38, 38, 38, 38], k18[19, 19, 21, 23, 24, 24].
Place live sts on hold for Shoulders.

Right Front Armhole Shaping:
Remove Right Front sts from holder and place on the needles.
Next Row [WS]: P to last 6 sts, work to end.
Next Row: Work to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rows 0 [1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5] more times.
Next Row: P to last 6 sts, work to end. 36[37, 41, 43, 45, 46, 46] sts.

Right Front Collar Shaping:
Next Row [RS]: P2, (k2, p2) 2 times, k1, m1, knit to end.
Next Row: P to last 10 sts, (k2, p2) 2 times, k2.
Next Row: P2, (k2, p2) 2 times, k2, m1, knit to end.
Next Row: P to last 10 sts, (k2, p2) 2 times, k2.
Next Row: P2, (k2, p2) 2 times, knit to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows once.

Next Row: P to last 10 sts, (k2, p2) 2 times, k2.
Next Row: P2, (k2, p2) 3 times, k1, m1, knit to end.
Next Row: P to last 14 sts, (k2, p2) 3 times, k2.
Next Row: P2, (k2, p2) 3 times, k2, m1, knit to end.

Next Row: P to last 14 sts, (k2, p2) 3 times, k2.
Next Row: P2, (k2, p2) 3 times, knit to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows once.

Next Row: P to last 14 sts, (k2, p2) 2 times, k2.
Next Row: P2, (k2, p2) 4 times, knit to end.
Next Row: P to last 18 sts, (k2, p2) 4 times, k2.
Repeat the lasy 2 rows 3 more times.

Next Row: P2, (k2, p2) 5 times, knit to end.
Next Row: P to last 22 sts, (k2, p2) 5 times, k2.
Repeat the last 2 rows 3 more times.

Sizes XS and S only, move on to the Right Front Shoulder.

All other sizes:
Next Row: P2, (k2, p2) 6 times, knit to end.
Next Row: P to last 26 sts, (k2, p2) 6 times, k2.
Repeat the last 2 rows 2 more times. 40[41, 45, 47, 49, 50, 50] sts.

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Right Front Shoulder
Next Row: P2, (k2, p2) 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] times, knit to end.

Next Row: P to last 22[22, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26] sts, (k2, p2) 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] times, k2.

Repeat the last 2 rows 2 [2, 0, 1, 1, 2, 3] times.

Next Row: P2, (k2, p2) 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] times and place these 22[22, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26] sts on hold for COLLAR, k9[9, 9, 10, 11, 12, 12], w&t.

Work 2 rows even in St St. 18[19, 19, 21, 23, 24, 24] sts.

Turn sweater inside out, aligning Right Front and Back shoulders with RS facing each other.

Use the 3-needle BO to join from the WS.

Repeat for Left Shoulder.

Sleeve Cap
Starting at the center of the bound-off stitches of the underarm, pick up and knit 25[28, 31, 35, 38, 42, 48] sts between the underarm center and the three needle BO "seam," and pick up and knit 25[28, 31, 35, 38, 42, 48] more sts, finishing at the underarm center. Place marker and join in the round. 50[56, 62, 70, 76, 84, 96] sts.

Short Row 1: K3[7, 8, 12, 16, 20, 26] sts, place marker, k26[26, 28, 28, 28, 28, 28], w&t.

Short Row 2: P8[10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12], w&t.

Short Row 3: K9[11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13], w&t.

Short Row 4: P10[12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14], w&t.

Continue working short rows as established, incorporating 1 st more on each row until the last st before the marker is wrapped. Sleeve cap is complete.

Knit 12[5, 5, 8, 8, 13, 5] rnds.
Next Rnd: K to end.
Next Rnd: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Repeat the last 2 rnds 0[0, 0, 2, 1, 1, 3] more times. 48[54, 60, 64, 72, 80, 88] sts.

Sleeve shaping:
Knit 14[10, 9, 7, 6, 5, 4] rnds.
Dec Rnd: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Repeat the last 15[10, 10, 8, 7, 6, 5] rnds 5[8, 9, 11, 13, 15, 19] more times. 36[36, 40, 40, 44, 48, 48] sts.

Sleeve Cuff
Rnds 1-20: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
BO in pattern.

SECOND SLEEVE
Repeat from Sleeve Cap through Sleeve Cuff.

Collar
With WS facing, remove the 22[22, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26] sts from Left Front Collar holder and k2, {p2, k2] 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] times, pick up and k38[38, 46, 46, 46, 46, 46] along the Back neck, remove the 22[22, 26, 26, 26, 26, 26] sts from Right Front Collar holder and k2, (p2, k2) 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6] times. 82[80, 98, 98, 98, 98, 98] sts.

Row 1 [RS]: P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
Row 2: K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
Repeat the last 2 rows 7[7, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8] more times.
BO in pattern.

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FINISHING
Weave in all ends using darning needle and block according to the schematic. Attach buttons.

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ABOUT THE DESIGNER

designernamespacer Andi Satterlund has been knitting for approximately a decade, and it has slowly taken over her life. She spends most of her time drinking tea, watching murder mysteries, and working on new sweater designs.

Andi blogs at Untangling-Knots.com, and you'll find her on Ravelry, here.

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