by Ashley Knowlton

What patience I have in plying I make up for in disliking sewing pieces together. Alyn may be made of a 3-ply handspun yarn, but the grafting at the armholes is the only join there is, allowing for a sleek structure and minimal finishing. Only the front and sleeves are patterned, giving your brain a bit of a stockinette stitch rest between cables.

Oatmeal BFL (usually a natural tawny grey) is the perfect color to leave undyed for men’s garments, while the slightly mottled texture of handspun yarn gives the stockinette portions interest. A tight ply makes this sweater extremely warm and perfect for cozying up inside in winter, or for chilly treks into the village in the snow.

SIZE
For men's garments: S[M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X]
(shown in size L with approx 4 inches of ease)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 36.75[40.75, 44.5, 48.5, 52.25, 56.25] inches
Length (shoulder to hem): 26.5[27, 28.25, 29, 30, 30.5] inches

MATERIALS
Fiber
World of Wool Oatmeal BFL [100% Blue Faced Leicester; top]; color: undyed; 24 [27.5, 31.5 , 35, 39.5, 43] ounces.

Finished Yarn:
Ply: 3
Wraps per inch: 9 (final yarn)
Yardage used: 1270 [1440, 1650, 1850, 2080, 2270]yards

Drafting Method:
Short draw worsted

Commercial Yarn Alternative
Cascade Ecological Wool [100% wool; 478 yd/437 m per 250g skein]; color: 8019; 3[3, 4, 4, 5, 5] skeins

	Spinning Tool: Wee Peggy Spinning Wheel; [single drive, scotch tension]

Recommended needle size
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
32- to 46-inch US #8/5mm circular needle
1 set US #8/5mm double-point needles (or preferred needles for working small circumferences in the round)

Tools
Cable needle
yarn needle

GAUGE

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

The beginning of the rnd on the body is located at the center front to make separating for the zipper easier.

cn: cable needle

Cable patterns
2/1LPC: Sl 2 sts to cn and hold in front, p1, k2 from cn.
2/1RPC: Sl 1 st to cn and hold in back, k2, p1 from cn.
2/2LC: Sl 2 sts to cn and hold in front, k2, k2 from cn.
2/2RC: Sl 2 sts to cn and hold in back, k2, k2 from cn.
1/1LC: Knit into 2nd st on left needle, knit into first st on left needle, slip both sts from needle.
1/1RC: K2tog without slipping sts off needle, knit into first st again, slip both sts from needle.
m1L: From the front, lift loop between sts with left needle, knit into back of loop.
m1R: From the back, lift loop between sts with left needle, knit into front of loop.

DIRECTIONS

Rib Rnd: K2, p2, k6[6, 6, 6, 10, 10], p2, k2[2, 6, 6, 6, 6], (p2, k2) 6[7, 7, 8, 8, 9]  times, pm for side "seam", p1, (k2, p2) 18[20, 22, 24, 26, 28] times, k2, p1, pm for side "seam", (k2, p2) 6 [7, 7, 8, 8, 9]  times, k2 [2, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2, k6[6, 6, 6, 10, 10], p2, k2.

Rep last rnd 9 times more, slipping all markers.

Cable Set-Up:
Rnd 1: K2, p2, k6[6, 6, 6, 10, 10], p2, k2[2, 6, 6, 6, 6], work Row 1 of Cable Chart 1 across next 18 sts, k6[10, 10, 14, 14, 18], slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, k6[10, 10, 14, 14, 18], work Row 1 of Cable Chart 2 across next 18 sts, k2[2, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2, k6[6, 6, 6, 10, 10], p2, k2. 164[180, 196, 212, 228, 244] sts

Rnds 2-4: K2, p2, k6[6, 6, 6, 10, 10], p2, k2[2, 6, 6, 6, 6], work next row of Cable Chart 1, k6[10, 10, 14, 14, 18], slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, k6[10, 10, 14, 14, 18], work next row of Cable Chart 2 across next 18 sts, k2[2, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2, k6 [6, 6, 6, 10, 10], p2, k2.

Cont in patt as established, working Rows 1-4 of charts once, then rep Rows 5-16 of charts until piece measures 17.5[17.5, 18.25, 18.5, 19, 19] inches or desired length to underarm, ending after an even rnd. Do not break yarn. Place body sts on holder.

Rnds 1-2: K4[6, 6, 6, 7, 7], p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2], k2, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 8], p2, k2, p2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2], k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2, k4[6, 6, 6, 7, 7].

Rnd 3: K4[6, 6, 6, 7, 7], p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2], 1/1RC, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 8], p2, 1/1LC, p2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2], k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2, k4[6, 6, 6, 7, 7].

Rnd 4: K4[6, 6, 6, 7, 7], p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2], k2, p2, k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 8], p2, k2, p2[2, 1, 2, 2, 2], k4[4, 6, 6, 6, 6], p2, k4[6, 6, 6, 7, 7].
Rep Rnds 3-4 twice more.

Inc Rnd: K1, m1R, work in patt to last st (knitting the knit sts, purling the purl sts, and working cables as established), m1L, k1. 2 sts inc
Work even in patt for 7[7, 5, 3, 3, 3] rnds more.
Rep last 8[8, 6, 4, 4, 4] rnds 11[11, 14, 16, 17, 18] times more, working inc sts in St st. 60[64, 74, 80, 84, 88] sts

Work even in patt until piece measures 18[18.5, 18.5, 19, 19, 19.5] inches from cast on or desired length to underarm, ending on an even rnd and ending before last 5[6, 7, 7, 9, 10] sts of rnd. Place first 5[6, 7, 7, 9, 10] sts and last 5[6, 7, 7, 9, 10] sts (for a total of 10[12, 14, 14, 18, 20] sts) on holder or scrap yarn for underarm. Break yarn, leaving a long tail for grafting, and leave rem sts on separate holder.

Work even in patt until piece measures 2[2.25, 1.75, 1.25, 1.25, 1.5] inches from joining, ending after an even rnd.

Yoke
Note: Read ahead! Division for zipper and neck shaping beg when raglan dec are still being worked. Cont working cable patt as space permits; when cabling becomes impossible, knit the knits and purl the purls until these sts are dec into raglan shaping.

Initial Raglan Decreases:
Rnd 1: *Work in patt to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker, k1, ssk; rep from * three times more, work in patt to end of rnd. 8 sts dec
Rnd 2: Work even in patt.
Rep last 2 rnds 17[18, 21, 24, 25, 26] times more. 100[108, 112, 116, 116, 124] sts; 42[46, 46, 48, 50, 54] total sts for Fronts, 30[34, 34, 36, 38, 42] sts for Back, and 14 [14, 16, 16, 14, 14] sts for each Sleeve

Divide for Zipper:
AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 5[5.5, 6, 5.5, 6, 6.5] inches from joining, ending after an odd rnd, turn and beg working back and forth in rows in patt, starting and ending at beg of rnd marker (center front) and slipping the first st of every row. Piece measures approx 8[8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5] inches from joining when initial raglan decreases are complete.

Collar:
Note: When picking up sts between neck and held body sts, you may need to pick up more than required (work these sts tog to correct st count) to avoid holes.

Next row [RS]: With RS facing, pick up 15[17, 17, 18, 19, 21] sts along right front neck BO, pick up and knit 1[1, 3, 1, 1, 1] st(s) to held body sts, knit across all 44[48, 52, 54, 52, 56] sts on needle, pick up and knit 1 [1, 3, 1, 1, 1] st(s) to left front neck BO, pick up and knit 15[17, 17, 18, 19, 21] sts along left neck BO. 76[84, 92, 92, 92, 100] sts

Row 1 [WS]: (P4, k4) to last 4 sts, p4.
Row 2 [RS]: (K4, p4) to last 4 sts, k4.

Rep last 2 rows until collar measures approx 4.25 inches (or length that will allow approx 2 extra rows above zipper after zipper is set in) from picked up sts. BO loosely.

FINISHING
Graft underarms and block to measurements. Weave in ends. Carefully pin zipper into neck opening and sew in place.

Ashley is an American ex-pat who designs, writes, cycles, and knits from a beautiful Oxfordshire town that is famous for its woolens. 

Find her on Ravelry here.