Knitty: Fall 2006

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by Jesse Loesberg Beware, ye knitter! [This sweater was made whilst the designer was in the midst of Moby Dick.] Neither all-cable nor all-stockinette, this rugged cardigan seeks to go where other men's sweaters do not. Take stock, consider well, and cast on!
model: Jesse Loesberg photos: Danica Wyatt & Zoë Gladstone


SIZE
S [M, L, 1X, 2X] (shown in S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 36[40, 44, 48, 52] inches Length to shoulder: 26.5[27, 28, 28.5, 29.5] inches

MATERIALS
Plymouth Galway [100% wool; 210yd/192m per 100 g skein]; color: #704 Charcoal; 7[7, 8, 9, 10] skeins 1 US #7/4.5mm circular needles, at least 29 inches long 1 US #5/3.75mm circular needle, at least 29 inches long 2 spare circular needles, US #7/4.5mm or smaller, one should be at least 29 inches long Cable needle Stitch markers Tapestry needle Sewing needle Sewing thread Separating zipper Note: Wait to buy zipper until after jacket is complete, assembled, washed and blocked to ensure you get the correct length!

GAUGE
20 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
C2B: Slip next st to cable needle and hold to back of work, k1, k1 from cable needle. C2F: Slip next st to cable needle and hold to front of work, k1, k1 from cable needle. PC2B: Slip next st to cable needle and hold to back of work, k1, p1 from cable needle. PC2F: Slip next st to cable needle and hold to front of work, p1, k1 from cable needle. PC3B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work, k1; sl second st on cable needle to left needle, p1; k1 from cable needle. PC3F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work, k1; sl second st on cable needle to left needle, p1; k1 from cable needle. Cabled Band (Worked over 14 sts): Rows 1, 3 [RS]: P1, k1, p2, k1, p4, k1, p2, k1, p1. Rows 2, 4 [WS]: K1, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k1. Row 5 [RS]: [P1, PC2F] twice, p2, [PC2B, p1] twice. Row 6 [WS]: [K2, p1] four times, k2. Row 7 [RS]: P2, PC2F, p1, PC2F, PC2B, p1, PC2B, p2. Row 8 [WS]: K3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3. Row 9 [RS]: P3, PC2F, p1, C2F, p1, PC2B, p3. Row 10 [WS]: K4, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k4. Row 11 [RS]: P4, [PC3B] twice, p4. Row 12 [WS]: K4, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k4. Row 13 [RS]: P3, PC2B, p1, C2F, p1, PC2F, p3. Row 14 [WS]: K3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3. Row 15 [RS]: P2, PC2B, p1, PC2B, PC2F, p1, PC2F, p2. Row 16 [WS]: [K2, p1] four times, k2. Row 17 [RS]: [P1, PC2B] twice, p2, [PC2F, p1] twice. Rows 18, 20, 22 [WS]: K1, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k1. Row 19, 21 [RS]: P1, k1, p2, k1, p4, k1, p2, k1, p1. Row 23 [RS]: [P1, PC2F] twice, p2, [PC2B, p1] twice. Row 24 [WS]: [K2, p1] four times, k2. Row 25 [RS]: P2, PC2F, p1, PC2F, PC2B, p1, PC2B, p2. Row 26 [WS]: K3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3. Row 27 [RS]: P3, PC2F, p1, C2B, p1, PC2B, p3. Row 28 [WS]: K4, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k4. Row 29 [RS]: P4, [PC3F] twice, p4. Row 30 [WS]: K4, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k4. Row 31 [RS]: P3, PC2B, p1, C2B, p1, PC2F, p3. Row 32 [WS]: K3, p1, k2, p2, k2, p1, k3. Row 33 [RS]: P2, PC2B, p1, PC2B, PC2F, p1, PC2F, p2. Row 34 [WS]: [K2, p1] four times, k2. Row 35 [RS]: [P1, PC2B] twice, p2, [PC2F, p1] twice. Row 36 [WS]: K1, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k1.
DIRECTIONS
Lower Body Using US #7/4.5mm circular needle, CO 14 sts. Work Rows 1-36 of Cabled Band 6[6, 7, 8, 9] times. Sizes M, L Only: Work Rows 1-18 of Cabled Band once more. All Sizes: Work Rows 1-4 of Cabled Band once more. BO all sts. Do not break yarn; 1 st on needle. Rotate band 90 degrees clockwise. Working along long edge of cabled band with RS facing, pick up and k 4 sts for every 5 rows along edge of band. 177[193, 221, 235, 264] sts on needle. Note: If you do not have the exact number if sts listed above, don't worry! Change the number of sts increased or decreased on the next row so that you will end up with 178[198, 218, 238, 258] sts. Sizes S, M, XL Only: Next Row [WS]: [P88[32, -, 59, -], m1] 1[5, -, 3, -] times, p to end. 178[198, -, 238, -] sts. Sizes L, 2XL Only: Next Row [WS]: [P-[-, 53, -, 36], p2tog] -[, -, 3, -, 6] times, p to end. -[-, 218, -, 258] sts. All Sizes: Work in stockinette st until work measures 15[15, 16, 16, 17] inches from lower edge of cabled band, ending with a RS row. Next Row [WS]: P40[45, 50, 55, 60], BO 4 sts, p89[99, 109, 119, 129] (90[100, 110, 120, 130] sts on right needle after BO sts), BO 4 sts, to end. Place all sts on hold on longer spare circular needle. Do not break yarn. Sleeves Using US #5/3.75mm needle, CO 49[51, 53, 55, 57] sts. Beg with a RS row, work 6 rows in stockinette st. Using US #7/4.5mm needle, p 1 RS row to form turning ridge for hem. From this point, sleeve will be worked using US #7/4.5mm needle. Work 7 rows in stockinette st, beg with a WS row. Increase Row [RS]: K2, kfb, k to last 4 sts, kfb, k3. Work 5 rows in stockinette st. Repeat these 6 rows 13[13, 14, 15, 16] times more. 77[79, 83, 87, 91] sts. Cont in stockinette st until work measures 18[18.5, 19, 19.5, 20] inches from turning ridge, or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row. BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Break yarn and place rem 73[75, 79, 83, 87] sts on hold on shorter spare needle. Make a second sleeve in the same manner. Break yarn and place all sts on hold on the US #5/3.75mm needle. Yoke Note: When working the next row, you will be working the held sts of all pieces from the spare needles onto the US #7/4.5mm needle, joining the sleeves to the body. Stitch markers will be placed between the body sts and sleeve sts, and the raglan decreases will be worked at these points. Joining Row [RS]: Using US #7/4.5mm needle and yarn attached to right front of body, k40[45, 50, 55, 60] sts of right front, place marker, k73[75, 79, 83, 87] sts of one sleeve, place marker, k90[100, 110, 120, 130] sts of back, place marker, k73[75, 79, 83, 87] sts of other sleeve, place marker, k40[45, 50, 55, 60] sts of left front. 316[340, 368, 396, 424] sts on needle. P 1 row. Decrease Row [RS]: [K to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k2, k2tog] 4 times, k to end. Repeat these 2 rows 30[32, 34, 36, 38] times more. 68[76, 88, 100, 112] sts. Collar Cont in stockinette st until work measures 2.5 inches from last Decrease Row, ending with a WS row. P 1 RS row to form turning ridge for hem. Cont in stockinette st until work measures 2.5 inches from turning ridge, to form collar facing. BO all sts. Front Bands Using US #5/3.75mm needle, with RS facing and beg at lower edge of right front, pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rows along right front edge, to turning ridge of collar. (Do not pick up sts along last half of collar; this portion will be turned to the inside of the collar later in the finishing process. Beg with a WS row, work 5 rows in stockinette st. P 1 RS row to form turning ridge. Work 5 more rows in stockinette st to form band facing. BO all sts. Work left front band in the same way, picking up sts beg at turning ridge of collar, and ending at lower left front edge. Lower Hem Using US #7/4.5mm needle, with RS facing and beg at turning ridge at lower edge of left front band, pick up and k 4 sts for every 5 rows along lower edge of cabled band, ending at turning ridge of right front band. Beg with a WS row, work 7 rows in stockinette st. P 1 RS row to form turning ridge. Using US #5/3.75mm needle, work 6 more rows in stockinette st. BO all sts.


FINISHING
Weave in ends. Block sweater, turning hems and facings to inside. Sew sleeve seams and underarms seams. Sew sleeve hems to inside of sleeves. Sew front band facings to inside of front edge. Measure sweater and buy appropriate-length zipper. Sew zipper to front bands. Fold lower hem and collar facing over zipper tape and sew in place. Weave in remaining ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Jesse Loesberg lives in the San Francisco Bay Area, where he is both a writer and a knitting designer.
Pattern & images © 2006 Jesse Loesberg. Contact Jesse