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   by
Rosemary Hill
  
 One of my favorite places in the world is Muir Woods in my native California, just north of San Francisco. But not because of the Redwood trees for which it is famous. It’s the smell of the California Bay Laurel tree that is forever etched in my mind.  Whenever I’ve gone through difficult times, I’ve retreated to Muir Woods, spending hours and hours there in my favorite grove: smelling the trees, watching the light flicker across the ground as the wind blows, listening to the water burbling across rocks. Perhaps that is why my favorite color turns out to be green, even though, for the longest time, I thought it was plummy purple. This shawl, with its leaves and mesh pattern, reminds me of the light flickering through the Bay leaves in the most peaceful and lovely corner of my universe. I can almost smell it now! |  |  model: Rosemary
            Hill  photos: Clint
            Holeman, Rosemary Hill
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        | One |  |
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 | Measurements taken after blocking. Width: 22 inches
 Length: 82 inches
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 |  Artfibers Tsuki [40% silk/60% superkid mohair; 515yd/471m per 40g cone]; color: #04 Olive Green; 2 cones 
 
  1 24-inch US #6/ 4mm circular needle 
  Crochet hook, close in size to US G/6 / 4mm 
  Waste yarn 
  Sewing needle |  |
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 | Approx. 24 sts/22rows = 4 inches in Lace pattern AFTER BLOCKING Note: Correct gauge is not essential for this project.
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 | [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here] |  
          |   The
                chart for this pattern is large. Please click here to
                see the chart [now in PDF format].
                It should print neatly on a single sheet of letter-sized
                paper.
 Use the Russian Join to join yarn ends when necessary. Instructions
              for the Russian Join can be found here.
 Information about wet-blocking lace can be found here and here.
 S2KP:
              Slip next 2 sts together to right needle, as if working a k2tog;
              k next st, pass slipped sts over.
 SK2P: Slip next st knitwise, k2tog, pass slipped st over.
 
 Make Picot: CO 2 sts using Knitted Cast On; k2tog tbl, k1 tbl, pass first st worked over second st as if binding off.
 
 Crochet Cast On
 Using waste yarn, work a crochet chain several sts longer than the number of sts to be cast on. Starting 1 or 2 sts in from end of chain and using working yarn, pick up and k 1 st in the back loop of each ch until the required number of sts have been picked up. Later, the chain will be unraveled and the resulting live sts picked up.
 A tutorial for an alternate way to work the Crochet Cast
              On can be found here.
              If you use this method, k 1 row using the working yarn before
              beginning to work the pattern.
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 | SHAWL BODY Using Crochet Cast On, CO 125 sts. Leave a yarn tail at beginning of CO row, at least 6 inches long.
 Work Rows 1-32 of Lace Chart 13 times, then work Rows 1 and 2 once more.
 Pattern Repeat will be worked 3 times in each row.
 
 
   UPPER BORDER Row 1 [RS]: K2, ssk, yo, k1 tbl, p to last 5 sts, k1 tbl, yo, k2tog, k2.
 Row
                      2 [WS]: K all sts.
 Row
                      3 [RS]: Make picot, k1, ssk, yo, k1 tbl, [yo, k2tog] to last 2 sts, k2.
 Row
                      4 [WS]: Make picot, k to end.
 Rows 5 & 6: K all sts.
 Rows
                      7 & 8: Make picot, k to end.
 Rows
                      9 & 10: K all sts.
 BO as follows: [Make picot, BO 2 sts, sl st from right needle back to left needle] to end of row, making 1 picot at end of row. Break yarn and sew end into border so that last picot sits properly.
 
 LOWER BORDER
 Carefully remove waste yarn from CO edge, placing resulting live sts on needle. Join yarn to tail from CO using Russian Join. 125 sts on needle.
 
 The next row is a bit tricky; try it out on a swatch first if you wish. It is intended to carry the 5-stitch border unbroken along the side, rather than having an obvious half stitch offset. It’s worth the effort!
 
 Row 1 [RS]: P3, k1 but do not drop st from left needle, k2tog but drop only first st from left needle do not drop second st from needle, p2tog (second st of k2tog just worked is purled together with next st), p to last 6 sts, p1 but do not drop st from left needle, k2tog but drop only first st from left needle do not drop second st from needle, k1, p2, p2tog.
 Row
                        2 [WS]: P2, p2tog, yo, p1 tbl, k to last 5 sts, p1 tbl, yo, p2tog, p2.
 Row
                        3 [RS]: Make picot, p2, k2, [yo, k2tog] to last 6 sts, yo, k2tog, k1, p3.
 Row
                        4 [WS]: Make picot, p1, p2tog, yo, p1 tbl, k to last 5 sts, p1 tbl, yo, p2tog, p2.
 Work Rows
                        5-10 and BO as for Upper Border.
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 | Sew
                              in any remaining ends. Wet block shawl. Links to two excellent
                              articles about blocking lace can be found
                              in the Pattern Notes above. If using blocking wires or string, thread
                              through columns of yarnovers along side edges
                              of shawl, and through both yarnovers and
                              picots at ends of shawl.
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                                |   Rosemary
                                    (aka Romi) lives with three wonderful
                                    men in wine country. In 2005 she became
                                    a purveyor of shawl, scarf and sweater
                                    pins when she launched Designs
                                    by Romi, and since then it's
                                    been taking up most of her time. Right
                                    now, she's hard at work on a book for
                                    Interweave Press on knit and crocheted
                                    jewelry. She's just happy to be mixing
                                    work with play!
 Drop by her
                                    blog to see what she’s
                                  up to these days! |  
                                | Pattern & images © 2007 by:
                                      Rosemary Hill. Contact Romi | 
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