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This rockabilly inspired skirt is hot hot hot: guaranteed to make you the belle of the bowling alley.

Customize with embroidery, optional drawstring or elastic waistband, a sassy lining or no lining at all.

model: Jodi Green photos: Peter Zimmerman

S [M, L, XL, XXL] (shown in size M)

Waist: 33[36, 38, 41, 43] inches
Hip: 37[40, 42, 45, 47] inches
Length: 19.5[20, 20.5, 21, 21.5] inches



[MC] Garnstudio Paris [100% cotton; 82yd/75m per 50g skein]; color: #15 Black; 7[8, 8, 9, 10] skeins
[CC] Garnstudio Paris [100% cotton; 82yd/75m per 50g skein]; color: #12 Red; 4[5, 5, 5, 6] skeins

1 30-inch US #6/4mm circular needle
1 4mm crochet hook (optional; for drawstring)
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
1 piece 1-inch elastic, 2 inches smaller than your actual waist measurement (optional)
6 skeins DMC #444 yellow embroidery floss (optional)
1 to 1.5 yards fabric for lining (optional)


20 sts/28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Note: if substituting yarn, use a yarn with a recommended gauge of 17 sts/22 rows to 4 inches. The yarn is intentionally knit tighter for this pattern to help prevent the skirt from sagging


[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations can be found here]

To work the two color section, I carried very long strands of the non-working yarn behind the working yarn rather than weaving the non-working yarn behind all stitches, because weaving-in can show when using cotton. If you do not wish to put a lining in your skirt, you will need to carry shorter floats behind your work; this will require swatching for gauge, as you might need to go to a smaller needle size in order to maintain the correct gauge in this section.


Hem Ruffle
Using CC, CO 530[560, 600, 640, 660] sts. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.
Rounds 1-3
: [K8, p2] around.
Round 4: [Ssk, k4, k2tog, p2] around.
Rounds 5-6: [K6, p2] around.
Round 7: [Ssk, k2, k2tog, p2] around.
Rounds 8-9: [K4, p2] around.
Round 10: [Ssk, k2tog, p2] around.
Rounds 11-13: [K2, p2] around. 212[224, 240, 256, 264] sts rem.

Fair Isle Section
Join MC. You will be working the flame pattern in two colors, carrying the non-working yarn behind the working yarn throughout.
It may be helpful to place st markers between chart sections, and to mark the placement of any extra MC sts between chart sections. These extra markers should be removed once the colorwork sections are finished.
Set up row
: Work Row 1 of color charts as instructed for your size.
Size S
: Chart A, 2 sts MC, Chart B, 1 st MC, Chart C, 2 sts MC, Chart D, 1 sts MC, Chart B, 2 sts MC, Chart C, 1 st MC, Chart D, 1 st MC.
Size M
: [Chart A, Chart B, Chart C, Chart D] twice. No additional MC sts necessary.
Size L
: [Chart A, 2 sts MC, Chart B, 2 sts MC, Chart C, 2 sts MC, Chart D, 2 sts MC] twice.
Size XL
: Chart A, Chart B, 1 st MC, Chart C, Chart D, 1 st MC, Chart A, Chart B, 1 st MC, Chart D, Chart C, 1 st MC, Chart D.
Size XXL
: Chart A, Chart B, Chart C, 1 st MC, Chart D, Chart B, Chart A, Chart B, 1 st MC, Chart C, Chart D.

Work through all rounds of color charts in pattern as established.
Break CC, and cont with MC only. Remember to remove any extra st markers at this point.
Next Round:
K 106[112, 120, 128, 132], place marker, k to end.

Shape Hips and Waist
Decrease Round: K2tog, k to marker, k2tog, k to end.
Work 3[3, 2, 2] rounds even.
Repeat these 4[4, 3, 3, 3] rounds 12[12, 14, 15, 14] times more. 186[198, 210, 224, 234] sts rem.
Work Decrease Round as above.
Work 2[3, 3, 3, 4] rounds even.
Repeat these 3[4, 4, 4, 5] rounds 3[4, 7, 2, 5] times more. 178[188, 194, 218, 222] sts rem.
Work Decrease Round as above.
Work 1[2, 4, 4, 5] rounds even.
Repeat these 2[3, 5, 5, 6] rounds 5[4, 1, 6, 3] times.
Work 4[0, 0, 2, 2] rounds even. 166[178, 190, 204, 214] sts rem.



Next Round: [YO twice, k2tog] around.
Next Round: [K1 in YO, dropping extra wrap from needle (you will create only one stitch in each double YO), k1] around.
BO all sts loosely.
With crochet hook, make a crochet chain 40[42, 44, 48, 50] inches long and thread through eyelets for drawstring.

Work in St st for 1.25 inches, purl 1 row, then cont in stockinette st for an additional 1.25 inches. BO all sts loosely.
Fold work over at purl row to form a casing, and sew edge of to inside of skirt, leaving a small opening for inserting the elastic. Cut a piece of elastic 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement, thread into casing and sew ends together, being careful not to twist elastic. Sew casing closed.

Block skirt lightly.

Embroidery detail (optional)
Using darning needle and twelve strands of DMC floss, work duplicate st along edges of flames, using photos as guides. Working duplicate sts over red sts in pattern.

Lining (optional)
To cut lining, fold lining fabric in half, lay blocked skirt on top and cut two pieces of fabric one half inch larger than skirt on all sides. Place right sides of lining pieces together and sew side seams with a one half inch seam allowance. Place lining inside skirt, wrong sides together. Fold down top edge so that fold falls just below eyelet row or elastic casing and hand stitch lining to skirt. At hem, fold bottom edge of lining so that fold lines up with top edge of ruffle, and hand stitch lining to skirt.

Now pick yourself out a pretty bowling ball and get ready to score.


Jodi Green is an artist and knitter currently living in Windsor, Ontario. She has just committed herself to three years in the southern US to attend graduate school, and is now having to re-evaluate all of
her wool sweater plans.

Visit her at her blog