Knitty: editorial spring 06

mesilla anatoliaungranny smitht-twistjamesey jardin anglais
exchequered tendrils nagano sakura convertible topi reiddouble scoop
tiny tether pedicure socks hedera nautieblossom katja felted tea cosy

by Jenifer James Farrell

This is a very gracious and simple t-shirt, easy for even the most beginning knitters venturing into garments. The tee is knit in the round from the bottom up, with a wide swingy bottom that narrows towards the bust. The shaping on the top is made by raglan decreases -- but instead of the usual four decreases, I've put in six decreases. To make visual use of the decreases, the raglan sleeves use the usual fully-fashioned detailing. The front and back decreases use a double vertical decrease which not only leave a vertical line of stitches, but also add a little drama to your cleavage, if you need it like I do. The bind-off technique creates a slightly decorative neckline.

The edging is inspired by the "Stockinette Stitch T Twist" found in Nicky Epstein's Knitting on the Edge. I thought it would be a fun twist to put this on a Tee. It's an incredibly simple technique that leaves a slightly scalloped edging, perfect for showing off the swingy nature of this t-shirt. When choosing garment sizes, add very little ease to the chest by choosing a size that's close to your true chest measurement to emphasize the garment detailing.

model: Erica Hickey photos: Jenifer Farrell

SIZE

XS [S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL] (shown in size M)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust: 30[33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48] inches
Hip: 33.25[37.25, 40, 425, 46.5, 49.25, 52] inches
Length: 18[19, 20, 20.5, 21, 22] inches

MATERIALS

Debbie Bliss Cotton Angora [80% cotton/20% angora; 98yd/90m per 50g ball]; color: #07; 4[5, 5, 6, 7, 8] balls

1 set US #8/5mm straight needles
24-inch (for smaller sizes) or 32-inch (for larger sizes) US #8/5mm circular needle
Spare circular needle, US 8/5mm or smaller
6 stitch markers: 1 in color A, 2 in color B, 3 in color C
Six small stitch holders

GAUGE

18 sts/24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

Twist: Holding your right needle still, bring the left needle forward, under the edge of the fabric, back and up to meet the right needle. The CO edge and the row you have knit will twist up between the needles and curl down beneath your needle again, so you are ready to keep knitting. When subsequent rows have been knit, this twisted edge forms wavy scallops.

S2KP: Slip next 2 sts together, as if to k2tog; knit next st, pass slipped sts over. This forms a centered double decrease.

Three-Needle Bind Off:
Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together.
*Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st.*
Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.

DIRECTIONS

Body
Using circular needle, CO 150[168, 180, 192, 210, 222, 234] sts. Do not join work. Beg with a RS row, work 6 rows in stockinette st.

Next Row [RS]: K3, twist, [k6, twist] to last 3 sts, k3.

Join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker A to mark beg of round, k75[84, 90, 96, 105, 111, 117], place marker B to mark side "seam", k to end.

Work 8 rounds in stockinette st.

Next Round: [K1, ssk, k to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1] twice. 4 sts decreased.

K 9[7, 11, 11, 10, 10, 10] rounds.

Repeat these 10[8, 12, 12, 11, 11, 11] rounds 3[4, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] times more. 134[148, 164, 176, 190, 202, 214] sts rem.

Cont in stockinette st until work measures 11[11.5, 12, 12.5, 13, 13, 13] inches.

Next Round: Remove marker, k5, place these 5 sts and last 5 sts of previous round on st holder; k to 5 sts after next marker, place 10 sts just worked on st holder, removing marker; k to end. Front and back each have 57[64, 72, 78, 85, 91, 97] sts. Set aside; do not break yarn.

Sleeves
Using new ball of yarn and straight needles, CO 54[60, 60, 60, 66, 72, 72] sts, leaving an 8-inch tail.
Beg with a RS row, work 4 rows in stockinette st.

Next Row [RS]: K3, twist, [k6, twist] to last 3 sts, k3.
Work 2 rows in stockinette st.

Next Row [WS]: P5, place these 5 sts on st holder, p to end, place last 5 sts on st holder. 44[50, 50, 50, 56, 62, 62] sts rem. Place first sleeve on hold on spare needle; make second sleeve in the same way.

Yoke
Sizes XS, XL, 2XL, 3XL Only:
Pick up body; beg where yarn is attached, place marker A to mark beg of round (this will be back left shoulder), k sts from one sleeve onto circular needle, place marker C to mark raglan decrease point, k first 28[_, _, _, 42, 45, 48] sts from front of sweater, place marker B to mark front center decrease point, k rem sts from front of sweater, place marker C, k sts from rem sleeve, place marker C, k first 28[_, _, _, 42, 45, 48] sts from back of sweater, place marker B to mark back center decrease point, k rem sts from back of sweater. 202[_, _, _, 282, 306, 318] sts.

Sizes S, M, L Only:
Pick up body; beg where yarn is attached, place marker A to mark beg of round (this will be back left shoulder), k sts from one sleeve onto circular needle, place marker C to mark raglan decrease point, k first _[31, 35, 38, _, _, _] sts from front of sweater, place marker B to mark front center decrease point, k2tog, k rem sts from front of sweater, place marker C, k sts from rem sleeve, place marker C, k first _[31, 35, 38, _, _, _] sts from back of sweater, place marker B to mark back center decrease point, k2tog, k rem sts from back of sweater. _[226, 242, 254, _, _, _]] sts.

All Sizes:
Decrease Round: K1, k2tog, k to 3 sts before first marker C, ssk, k3, k2tog, k to 1 st before first marker B, *slip next st to right needle, remove marker, replace st on left needle, place marker on right needle, S2KP*, k to 4 sts before second marker C, ssk, k3, k2tog, k to 3 sts before third marker C, ssk, k3, k2tog, k to 1 st before second marker B, repeat from * to *, k to last 4 sts, ssk, k2. 12 sts decreased.

K 1 round.

Repeat these 2 rounds 7[8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14] times more. 106[118, 122, 122, 126, 138, 138] sts rem.

Fitting Note: To ensure a good fit, slip all sts to waste yarn and try on garment. If neckline is too wide, work one or more additional decrease rounds. Each decrease round will reduce neckline width by slightly more than 2.5 inches.

BO round: [K2tog tbl, slip st from right needle to left needle without twisting] to last 2 sts, k2tog tbl. Break yarn and draw through rem st.

FINISHING

Sew sleeve seams.

Replace held sts of one sleeve and held sts of corresponding underarm on needles. Join using Three-Needle Bind Off. Repeat for other underarm.

Weave in ends and block lightly, so that center decreases and edgings will lay flat.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Jenifer knits to keep her sanity near Boulder, Colorado, where she is a SAHM by day, and college foreign language instructor by night.

She asks you to join her in shouting at the top of your lungs, "Free to stitch, free to bitch!" You can visit her blog if you need to know what that means.