I was swatching and unventing cable designs for a pullover.
Several patterns were good, but I couldn’t put all of them
onto said garment (which is still to be knitted).
So I picked two of the “leftovers” and threw them
onto a pair of socks. But that was too boring,
so I added a bit of interest to the toe and
some more interest to the gusset.
On top of that, the gusset increases are not
made in the usual place or in the usual way.
I find that, at a tight gauge, my method of increases makes for
a tidier fabric, with less pulling or puckering. Enjoy!
A big THANKS to my test knitters!
Bold, Jennifer Brill-Rinsche
S[M, L, XL] which equals shoe size
US Women’s 6-7[7½-8½,
US Men’s 4½-5½ [6-7, 7½-8,
EU 36-37[38-39, 40-41, 42-43]
pink socks shown in size M
blue socks shown in size L
Royal [60% Merino, 20% Nylon, 10% Cashmere,
10% Silk; 200m per 50g ball]; color:
21 raspberry; 2[2, 3, 3] balls
Grossa Meilenweit 100 Merino [80% Merino,
20% Nylon; 420m per 100g ball]; color:
2019 blue; 1[1, 2, 2] ball[s]
Recommended needle size [always use a needle
size that gives you the gauge
listed below -- every knitter's
gauge is unique]
set US #0/2mm double-point needles OR
1 long US #0/2mm circular needle for magic loop method OR
2 US #0/2mm circular needles for two-circulars method
34 sts/50 rounds = 4 inches in
stockinette stitch in the round
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
If you have a different round gauge,
or you need to shorten/lengthen the foot part: Keep the pattern
on the gusset and change the length before the gusset. You can
shorten the pattern on the foot by 12 rounds (1 repeat). Adjust
the cable set-up on the toe/foot part accordingly.
My toes are quite square and the
toe of this sock is shaped accordingly. If you have
pointy toes, you might want to start with
fewer stitches and do more increases. To
keep the overall foot length the same,
you will need to reduce the foot
same number of rounds that you add for the toe.
Increase. Insert your
left needle, from front to back, under the left leg of the stitch
two rows below the stitch just knit. Knit into the back of this
Lifted Increase. Insert your right
needle, from front to back, under the
right leg of the stitch below the first
stitch on the left needle. Transfer
this stitch to your left needle and
knit into the front of it.
M1P: Insert your left needle from back to front
under the bar between the last stitch on the right needle and
the first stitch on the left needle, and purl it.
C4B: Slip next 2 sts to cn and hold in back;
k2, then k2 from cn.
C4F: Slip next 2 sts to cn and hold in front;
k2, then k2 from cn.
T4B: Slip next 2 sts to cn and hold in back,
k2, then p2 from cn.
T4F: Slip next 2 sts to cn and hold in front;
p2, then k2 from cn.
Cable Dec 1 Back: Slip next 2 sts to cn and
hold in back, k1, then k1 st from left needle tog with 1 st from
cn, k1 from cn. 1 st decreased.
Cable Dec 1 Front: Slip next 2 sts to cn and
hold in front; k1, then k 1 st from cn tog with 1 st from left
needle, k1 from cn. 1 st decreased.
Cable Dec 2 Back: Slip
next 2 sts to cn and hold in back,
(k 1 st from left needle tog with 1
st from cn) twice. 2 sts decreased.
Cable Dec 2 Front: Slip next 2 sts to cn and
hold in front, (k 1 st from cn tog with 1 st from left needle)
twice. 2 sts decreased.
The charts for this pattern are very large. Each fits on a letter-sized
Click below and print each resulting
Using Judy’s Magic Cast On,
CO 28 stitches. First 14 sts will form instep; remaining 14 sts will
form sole. Distribute sts appropriately, placing markers for start of
round, and after st 14 for center of round if you wish.
Toe round 1: Work row 1 of chart 1a[1b, 1c, 1d] to
center of round, k1, M1R, k to 1 st before end of round, M1L,
Toe round 2: Work row 2 of chart 1a[1b,
1c, 1d] to center of round, and k to end of round.
Continue as established, working increases as set on sole every
other round until chart 1a[1b, 1c, 1d] is complete. 34
stitches on the instep and 30[30, 32, 32] stitches on the sole.
Foot Foot round: Work chart 2a[2a,
2b, 2b] across 34 instep sts, knit
to end of round.
Continue until you have finished round 34[34, 38, 38] of chart.
38[38, 40, 40] stitches on the instep and 30[30, 32, 32] stitches
on the sole.
Gusset setup round: Work chart 2a[2a, 2b, 2b] round
35[35, 39, 39], k29[29, 31, 31] and transfer
rem stitch to the instep. This will be
the new start of round. Move marker as appropriate.
In these rounds, you will be creating
the gussets by working increases in
the center of the sole, and transferring
the corresponding number of stitches from the edges of the sole
to the instep.
Round 1: Work chart 3a[3a, 3b, 3b], including the first stitch
from the sole - thus transferring it to the instep; k13[13, 14, 14],
place first gusset increase marker, yo, k2, yo, place second gusset increase
marker, knit 13[13, 14, 14]. Move end of instep marker, as appropriate.
Round 2: Work chart for instep, knit to first gusset
increase marker, slip marker, ktbl, knit to one stitch before
second gusset increase marker, ktbl, slip marker, knit to end
Round 3: Work chart, knit to within one stitch of end
of round, slip last stitch to instep.
Round 4: Work chart including the first stitch from
the sole - thus transferring it to the
instep - knit to marker, slip marker,
YO, knit to marker, YO, slip marker,
knit to end of round.
Round 5: Work chart, knit to marker, slip marker, ktbl,
knit to one stitch before marker, ktbl, slip marker, knit to
end of round.
Round 6: Work chart, knit to within one stitch of end
of round, slip one stitch to instep.
Repeat Rounds 4-6 11[11, 12, 12] times more. Then repeat Rounds
4 and 5 once more. Your last chart round should
be round 41[41, 44, 44].
Now work round 42[42, 45, 45] of chart 3a[3a, 3b, 3b]. Stop
after working the chart; DO NOT finish
the round. 68[68, 72, 72] stitches on the instep and 30[30, 32,
32] stitches on the sole.
For sizes L and XL: Row 1 [RS]: K31, wrap and
turn. Row 2 [WS]: P30, wrap and
For all sizes: Row 1 [RS]: K29, removing
markers as you go, wrap and turn. Row 2 [WS]: P28, wrap and
turn. Row 3 [RS]: K27, wrap and
turn. Row 4 [WS]: P26, wrap and
turn. Row5 [RS]: K25, wrap and turn. Row 6 [WS]: P24, wrap and
turn. Row 7 [RS]: K23, wrap and
turn. Row 8 [WS]: P22, wrap and
turn. Row 9 [RS]: K21, wrap and
turn. Row 10 [WS]:P20, wrap and
turn. Row 11 [RS]: K19, wrap and
turn. Row 12 [WS]:P18, wrap and
For sizes S and M: Row 13 [RS]: K17, wrap and
turn. Row 14 [WS]:P16, wrap and
For all sizes: Next round: K16[16, 18, 18],
work each of the next 7 stitches together
with their wraps, work round 43[43,
46, 46] of chart 3a[3a, 3b, 3b], work
each of the next 7 stitches together
with their wraps, k8[8, 9, 9].
Transfer the 14[14, 15, 15] gusset stitches
on each side to the sole.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 11[11, 12, 12] times more.
36[36, 38, 38] stitches on the instep and 32[32, 34, 34] stitches
on the sole, which is now the back of the sock.
One gusset stitch on each side is left and will be decreased
in the first leg round, as per the chart.
This helps to avoid holes.
Final heel flap row [RS]: Slip 1 wyib, k14[14, 15,
15]. You are now in the center back, which is the middle of the
former sole stitches. This is the new beginning of the round.
Redistribute the stitches and move markers as appropriate.
Start working in rounds again, following
chart 4a[4a, 4b, 4b] as follows:
Work Rounds 1 to 24.
Repeat Rounds 13-24 once
more. 74[74, 78, 78] stitches.
Work Rounds 25-40.
29-40 once more. 76[76,
80, 80] stitches.
Work Rounds 41-57, then repeat Round
57 19 times more. 66[66, 70, 70] stitches.
FINISHING Bind off as follows: Work 1 st in pattern (knit the knits
and purl the purls), [work 1 st in
pattern, knit the 2 sts together through the back loop] until 1 st rem. Cut
yarn and pull on the st until the end pulls through.
Weave in ends.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Stefanie got introduced to knitting by
her Mom at the age of about 8. Since then,
she's added lots of techniques and other
crafts to her repertoire, thanks to books
and later the internet.