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universal toe-up sock formula

My friend Jeff is an aspiring industrial designer, so he had some very specific ideas when he asked me to knit him a toque. We went through something like fifteen sketches until we came up with just the wavy pattern he liked.

Then came an extra request-a hidden peace sign in purls on each earflap, just to make it truly unique.

Well, now I'm publishing the pattern (sorry, Jeff!) but every hand knit thing is unique, right?

By the way, Jeff is single and looking for love in San Jose if you're interested. He wants you all to know that he's 6 feet tall and a rippin' skier.

model: Jeff Cheng photos: Kimmie Kemper

S [M, L] (shown in M)
Length: 7.5[7.5, 8.5] inches (not including earflaps)
Width: 18.5 [21.25, 24] inches

Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 [100% Wool; 220yd/201m per 100g skein]; 1 skein each color
[MC] #2411 Brown
[CC] #8505 White

1 set US #5/3.25mm double-point needles
1 16-inch US 5/3.25mm circular needle OR SIZE NEEDED TO OBTAIN GAUGE

Stitch marker
Crochet hook
Tapestry needle

16.5 sts/27rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

The earflaps are worked first, back and forth on double-point needles. When the second earflap is complete, additional stitches are cast on for the front and back of the hat, and the body and crown of the hat are worked in the round.

The earflap directions are written so that a peace sign is worked in purl stitches. If you don't want to make the peace sign, the earflaps can be worked in stockinette.


Ear Flaps
Note: Earflap Chart shows the same information as the directions below.

*Using double-point needle and MC, CO 5 sts.

Row 1 [RS]: K5.

Row 2 [WS]: Kfb, p3, kfb. 7 sts.

Row 3 [RS]: Kfb, k5, kfb. 9 sts.

Row 4 [WS]: Kfb, p2, k3, p2, kfb. 11 sts.

Row 5 [RS]: Kfb, k2, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k2, kfb. 13 sts.

Row 6 [WS]: Kfb, p2, [k1, p2] three times, kfb. 15 sts.

Row 7 [RS]: K3, p2, k2, p1, k2, p2, k3.

Row 8 [WS]: Kfb, p1, k1, p2, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p2, k1, p1, kfb. 17 sts.

Row 9 [RS]: K3, p1, k3, p3, k3, p1, k3.
Row 10
[WS]: Kfb, p2, [k1, p4] twice, k1, p2, kfb. 19 sts.
Row 11
[RS]: [K4, p1] three times, k4.
Row 12
[WS]: P5, [k1, p3] twice, k1, p5.
Row 13
[RS]: K6, [p1, k2] twice, p1, k6.
Row 14
[WS]: P7, [k1, p1] twice, k1, p7.
Row 15
[RS]: K8, p3, k8.
Row 16
[WS]: P19.
Row 17
[RS]: Kfb, k17, kfb. 21 sts.
Row 18 [WS]: P21.*

Break yarn. Set aside, leaving sts on hold on needle.

Using another double-point needle, work from * to *as for first earflap.

Row 19 [RS]: Using circular needle, k21, CO 23[30, 38] sts (for front of hat), k held sts from first earflap, CO 12[16, 19] sts (for back of hat). 77[88, 99] sts. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.

P 2 rounds.
K 12 rounds.
Work 16 rounds of Wave Chart. Break CC.

K 1 round.

Shape Crown

Size L Only:
Round 1: [K31, k2tog] 3 times. 96 sts.
Round 2: [K14, k2tog] 6 times. 90 sts.
Round 3: [K13, k2tog] 6 times. 84 sts.
Round 4: [K12, k2tog] 6 times. 78 sts.
Round 5: [K11, k2tog] 6 times. 72 sts.
Proceed to "All Sizes" Section, Round 1.

Size M Only:
Round 1: [K13, k2tog] twice, k27, k2tog, k13, k2tog, k14. 84 sts.
Round 2: [K12, k2tog] 6 times. 78 sts.
Round 3: [K11, k2tog] 6 times. 72 sts.
Proceed to "All Sizes" Section, Round 1.

Size S Only:
Round 1: [K11, k2tog] 5 times, k12. 72 sts.
Proceed to "All Sizes" Section, Round 1.

All Sizes:
Note: Switch to double-point needles when necessary.

Round 1: [K10, k2tog] 6 times. 66 sts.
Round 2: [K9, k2tog] 6 times. 60 sts.
Round 3: [K8, k2tog] 6 times. 54 sts.
Round 4: [K7, k2tog] 6 times. 48 sts.
Round 5: [K6, k2tog] 6 times. 42 sts.
Round 6: [K3, k2tog, k2tog] 6 times. 30 sts.
Round 7: [K1, k2tog, k2tog] 6 times. 18 sts.
Round 8: [K2tog] 9 times. 9 sts.

Break yarn, draw through remaining stitches and pull tight.



Weave in ends. Block as desired.


Cut seven 19-inch pieces of MC.

Hold strands together and twist clockwise until strands are very tightly twisted, and start to twist back on themselves. Fold this twisted length in half ; the two halves should twist around each other to form a rope-like cord (they made need some help twisting around each other evenly). Tie the ends in an overhand knot, so that the cord is the desired length. Trim any uneven cut ends.

Poke crochet hook through earflap, near tip of flap, from inside to outside. Hook looped (not knotted) end of tassel and pull to inside of earflap. Divide looped end of tassel, so that a hole is visible at the point where the tassel has been folded. Draw knotted end of tassel through this hole and pull to form a knot.

Make a second tassel and attach it to other the earflap in the same way.


Kimmie learned to knit when she left sunny San Diego for college in western Massachusetts, where she discovered sweaters, hats, and scarves had purpose beyond fashion. Now she knits and sells custom order hats for yarn money. She ski patrols and teaches backpacking and rock-climbing for grocery money.

Kimmie lives mostly out of her red Tacoma with her fiancé and their imaginary pack of sled dogs.