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Patterns<click for more! Print With Images Print Without Images
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Pink Needles
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Spinning Loft
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Title
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spacer model: Olivia Foppiano spacer photos: Rosemary Hill

Tangy

It sat there in the booth at Stitches West beckoning to me. Soft, fluffy, lovely light pea green top. Long time friends of mine will laugh when I, the (formerly) dedicated non-spinner, confess that I could not help but take it home with me. And I couldn't wait to get my hands on it to spin it up!

It did not disappoint. As a spinning neophyte used to 100% wool, I was bowled over by the beauty of the singles. And when I finished plying, the wonderful feel and slightly shimmery look had me thinking immediately of twisted stitch patterns. I chose a high twist alternate yarn to keep those stitches popping in the longer version of the gloves, as well.

Although I began the pattern thinking of early holiday gift knitting, I loved the look of the short pair of fingerless mitts with a summery dress and a big scarf or lacy shawl! A perfect little accessory for those cool summer days in San Francisco. Just make sure to hold tight to your parasol!

 

SIZE

Shorter[Longer]
To fit an average woman's hand.
Note: To change the size of these gloves, increase or decrease needle size. This stitch pattern will produce a pleasing fabric at several gauges.

 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Hand circumference (excluding thumb gusset): 6.5 inches, unstretched
Length: 6.5[11.25] inches

 
MATERIALS

spacer Shorter version, shown in handspun yarn:
Tactile Fiber Arts Studio naturally dyed fibers [50% Merino, 50% tencel; 2 oz. top]; color: Gingko; 2 ounces. Spun using worsted drafting technique. 22 wpi. Gloves require approx. 140yd/128m of yarn.

spacer Longer version, shown in commercial yarn:
Royale Hare Designer Series, Designs by Romi hand-dyed high twist merino sock [100% superwash merino; 245yd/224m per 2oz/56g skein]; color: Verdant; 2 skeins

Recommended needle size:
shorter handspun version
spacer 1 set US #0/2mm double-point needles

longer commercial yarn version
spacer1 set US #1/2.25mm double-point needles

[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

spacer Crochet hook, 1-2 sizes larger than needle size used
spacer Smooth waste yarn of thickness close to working yarn
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GAUGE

32 sts/48 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st

Note: Because the merino/tencel handspun yarn has less memory than the merino sock yarn, a different needle size was used to produce the same gauge. Swatch to find the correct needle size for the yarn you choose.
 
PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]

Charts
Click here and print the resulting page. It will fit on a single sheet of letter-sized paper.

Directions for the crochet cast on method used for this project can be found here.

Directions for the bind off method used for this project can be found here.

Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast On can be found here.

C4B: Sl 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work; k2 from left needle, k2 from cable needle.

C4F: Sl 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work; k2 from left needle, k2 from cable needle.

M1L (left-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from front to back, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased.

M1R (right-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from back to front, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch increased.

Twisted right-leaning decrease: K1 tbl; bring tip of left needle behind next st on left needle and insert it, from left to right, into the back leg of the st, dropping the st from the left needle. This will twist the st as it is slipped to the right needle. Slip both sts purlwise back to left needle; pass slipped st over knit st, then sl back to right needle.

DIRECTIONS
heartALTblank Using method shown in linked article (see Pattern Notes), CO 36 sts onto one double-point needle.

Set-up Row: Working sts onto four different needles (18 sts on each needle), [k1, yo] to end. 72 sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

In the next round, you will slip the sts that were knit on the previous round, and purl the yarnovers.

Round 1: [Sl 1 with yarn held to back of work, p1] to end. You will have slipped the sts that were knit on the previous round, and purled the yarnovers.
Round 2: [K1, sl 1 with yarn held to front of work] to end.
Round 3: Work as for Round 1.
Rounds 4-8: P1, [k1 tbl, p2] to last 2 sts, k1 tbl, p1.

Remove waste yarn from CO edge.

Longer Version Only:
Work Rounds 1-32 of Pattern Chart twice. 18 sts of chart are worked 4 times in each round.

Both Versions:
Work Rounds 1-18 of Pattern Chart. 18 sts of chart are worked 4 times in each round.

Shape Gusset:
Round 1: Work Round 19 of Pattern Chart over first 36 sts; place marker on second needle of round, work Round 1 of Gusset Chart onto Needle 2; work Round 19 of Pattern Chart over remaining 36 sts.

Round 2: Work in pattern as set (Round 20 of Pattern Chart and Round 2 of Gusset Chart).

Round 3: Work Round 21 of Pattern Chart over first 36 sts; slip marker, work first 2 sts of Round 3 of Gusset Chart; work third st of Round 3 of Gusset Chart onto third needle, place marker; work Round 21 of Pattern Chart over remaining 36 sts.

heartALT
Continue in pattern as set, working Rounds 4-33 of Gusset Chart over sts between markers. The strong vertical line on the Gusset Chart indicates the division between the second and third needles.

Next Round: Work in pattern to first marker, remove marker and place 25 sts of gusset on hold on waste yarn, CO 2 sts using twisted loop method, remove second marker, continue in pattern to end of round.
Divide new CO sts so that one is on second needle and one is on third needle.

Next Round: Work in pattern until 2 sts remain on second needle, p2tog; p2tog (first 2 sts on third needle worked together), continue in pattern to end of round. You will have just completed Round 21 of Pattern Chart.

Work Rounds 22-32 of Pattern Chart, then work Rounds 1-6.

heartALTblank Upper Edge:
Rounds 1-5: P1, [k1 tbl, p2] to last 2 sts, k1 tbl, p1.
Round 6: [Sl 1 with yarn held to front of work, k1] to end.
Round 7: [P1, sl 1 with yarn held to back of work] to end.

Using method shown in linked article (see Pattern Notes), BO all sts.

Thumb:
Place 25 held sts of thumb on needles. Using a new needle, pick up and k 4 sts in CO edge at point where gusset joins hand: 1 st at each side of CO sts, and 1 st in each CO st.

Work held sts in pattern as set then p first 2 picked-up sts. This point (center of picked-up sts) is beginning of round. 29 sts. Divide sts evenly between needles.

Round 1: P2tog, [k1 tbl, p2] to last 3 sts, k1 tbl, p2tog. 27 sts.

Rounds 2-5: P1, [k1 tbl, p2] to last 2 sts, k1 tbl, p1.

Round 6: [Sl 1 with yarn held to front of work, k1] to end.

Round 7: [P1, sl 1 with yarn held to back of work] to end.

BO all sts as for hand.

FINISHING

Weave in ends and block gently.

 
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
designernameBlank A frequent contributor to Knitty, Rosemary (aka Romi) has just had her book, Elements of Style: Knit & Crochet Jewelry with Wire, Fiber Felt and Beads, published by Interweave Press. When she's not designing lace and jewelry patterns, she's making shawl pins and sterling yarn ball jewelry for her company, Designs by Romi. She's just happy to be mixing work with play!

Drop by her blog to see what she's up to these days!

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