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Sauveterre Design


Every woman needs a black strappy dress as a wardrobe staple for glam-on-the-go. But on those nippy evenings when her date’s jacket simply won’t do in terms of style or warmth, she might happily reach for a soft feminine jacket of her own.

Aoife** is a cutaway-front bolero in 100% cashmere with set-in lantern sleeves, embellished with a celtic braided trim. The trim is knit separately and sewn directly onto the garment. The additional weight of the trim lends a lovely drape to the jacket and an elegant silhouette to the stand-up collar.

**The female Irish name Aoife (pronounced EE-feh) means "radiant" hopefully just what the wearer of this jacket ought to feel when it’s on!

model: Nathalie B. photos: Axelle de Sauveterre

SIZE
XS[S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X] (shown in size M)
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 30[34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54] inches
Length: 13[13, 14, 14, 15, 16, 16] inches
 
MATERIALS

[MC] A.L. de Sauveterre Pippin [100% cashmere; approx. 100 yds/91m per 50g skein]; color: Creme Fraiche; 7[7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 11] skeins
[CC] A.L. de Sauveterre Mont Blanc [100% cashmere; 200 yds/183m per 50g skein]; color: Creme Fraiche; 3[3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4] skeins

Recommended needle size:
1 set US #8/5mm straight needles
1 set US #6/4mm straight needles
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]

Cable needle
Tapestry needle
Safety pins

 
GAUGE
20 sts/26 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch using larger needles and MC
 
PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty’s list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

Pfb: Purl into front, then back of next st. 1 st increased.

C6B: Sl next 3 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work; k3, k3 from cable needle.

C6F: Sl next 3 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work; k3, k3 from cable needle.

C5BP: SL next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work; k3, p2 from cable needle.

C5FP: Sl next 3 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work; p2, k3 from cable needle.

Form Pleat: Sl next 3 sts to cable needle, rotate cable needle 180 degrees counter-clockwise so that 3 sts on cable needle are folded behind next 3 sts on left needle; [k next st on left needle together with next st on cable needle] 3 times.


Braided Cable (Worked over 29 sts):
Set-up Row 1 [RS]: K5, [p4, k6] twice, p2, k2.
Set-up Row 2 [WS]: P2, k2, [p6, k4] twice, p5.
Row 1 [RS]: K5, [p4, C6F] twice; rep fr * to last 4 sts, p2, k2.
Row 2 [WS]: P2, k2, [p6, k4] twice, p5.
Row 3 [RS]: K2, [C5FP, C5BP] twice, C5FP, k2.
Row 4 [WS]: P5, [k4, p6] twice, k2, p2.
Row 5 [RS]: K2, p2, [C6B, p4] twice, k5.
Row 6 [WS]: P5, [k4, p6] twice, k2, p2.
Row 7 [RS]: K2, [C5BP, C5FP] twice, C5BP, k2.
Row 8 [WS]: P2, k2, [p6, k4] twice, p5.
Work Set-up Rows 1-2 once, then repeat Rows 1-8 for Braided Cable.

PATTERN
BACK
Using larger needles and MC, CO 75[85, 95, 105, 115, 125, 135] sts.

Work in stockinette st until work measures 4.5[4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes:
BO 3[4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 69[77, 85, 93, 99, 107, 113] sts.

Next Row [RS]: K2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, ssk, k2.

P 1 row.

Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10] times more. 65[71, 75, 81, 85, 91, 91] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 12.5[12.5, 13.5, 13.5, 14.5, 15, 15] inches (armhole measures 8[8, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.5] inches), ending with a WS row.

Shape Shoulders:
BO 5[5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts at beginning of next 6[6, 4, 6, 4, 4, 4] rows.

Sizes M, 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
BO -[-, 6, -, 6, 8, 8] sts at beginning of next 2 rows.

All Sizes:
BO remaining 37[41, 43, 45, 45, 47, 47] sts.

LEFT FRONT
Using larger needles and MC, CO 28[33, 38, 43, 48, 53, 58] sts.
Row 1 [WS]: Pfb, p to end.
Row 2 [RS]: K to last st, kfb.
Repeat these 2 rows once more. 32[37, 42, 47, 52, 57, 62] sts.

P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: K to last st, kfb.
Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more. 37[42, 47, 52, 57, 62, 67] sts.

Work in stockinette st until work measures 4.5[4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes:
Next Row [RS]: BO 3[4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11] sts, k to end. 34[38, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56] sts.

P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: K2, k2tog, k to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10] times more. 32[35, 37, 40, 42, 45, 45] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 10[10, 11, 11, 12, 12.5, 12.5] inches (armhole measures 5.5[5.5, 6, 6, 6.5, 7, 7] inches), ending with a RS row.

Next Row [WS]: BO 11[14, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17] sts, p to end.

Next Row [RS]: K to last 4 sts, ssk, k2.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more. 15[15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 22] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 12.5[12.5, 13.5, 13.5, 14.5, 15, 15] inches (armhole measures 8[8, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.5] inches), ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: BO 5[5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts, k to end.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows once more.

BO remaining 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8] sts.

RIGHT FRONT
Using larger needles and MC, CO 28[33, 38, 43, 48, 53, 58] sts.

Row 1 [WS]: P to last st, pfb.

Row 2 [RS]: Kfb, k to end.

Repeat these 2 rows once more. 32[37, 42, 47, 52, 57, 62] sts.

P 1 row.

Next Row [RS]: Kfb, k to end.

Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more. 37[42, 47, 52, 57, 62, 67] sts.

Work in stockinette st until work measures 4.5[4.5, 5, 5, 5.5, 5.5, 5.5] inches, ending with a RS row.

Shape Armholes:
Next Row [WS]: BO 3[4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11] sts, p to end. 34[38, 42, 46, 49, 53, 56] sts.

Next Row [RS]: K to last 4 sts, ssk, k2.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10] times more. 32[35, 37, 40, 42, 45, 45] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 10[10, 11, 11, 12, 12.5, 12.5] inches (armhole measures 5.5[5.5, 6, 6, 6.5, 7, 7] inches), ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: BO 11[14, 15, 16, 16, 17, 17] sts, k to end.

P 1 row.
Next Row [RS]: K2, k2tog, k to end.
Repeat these 2 rows 5 times more. 15[15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 22] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 12.5[12.5, 13.5, 13.5, 14.5, 15, 15] inches (armhole measures 8[8, 8.5, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 9.5] inches), ending with a RS row.

Next Row [WS]: BO 5[5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 7] sts, p to end.
K 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows once more.

BO remaining 5[5, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8] sts.

SLEEVES (Make 2)
Using larger needles and MC, CO 104[108, 116, 120, 124, 128, 132] sts.

P 2 rows.

Work 4 rows in stockinette st, beginning with a RS row.

Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 7 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 8 rows twice more, then work Decrease Row once more. 96[100, 108, 112, 116, 120, 124] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 5 inches, ending with a WS row.

Form Pleats:
Next Row [RS]: K3[2, 3, 2, 1, 3, 2], [form pleat] to last 3[2, 3, 2, 1, 3, 2] sts, k to end. 51[52, 57, 58, 59, 63, 64] sts.

Next Row [WS]: P3[2, 3, 2, 1, 3, 2], [p2, p1 tbl] to last 3[2, 3, 2, 1, 3, 2] sts, p to end.

Next Row [RS]: K3[2, 3, 2, 1, 3, 2], [k2, k1 tbl] to last 3[2, 3, 2, 1, 3, 2] sts, k to end.

Work 9 rows in stockinette st.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Work 32[11, 11, 11, 11, 11, 8] rows in pattern.
Repeat these 32[12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 8] rows 1[3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 5] times more. 55[60, 65, 66, 67, 71, 76] sts.

Continue in stockinette st until work measures 16[16, 16, 16, 17, 18, 18] inches or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 3[4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 11] sts at beginning of next 2 rows. 49[52, 55, 54, 51, 53, 54] sts.

Decrease Row [RS]: K2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, ssk, k2.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows 11[12, 13, 13, 3, 3, 3] times more. 25[26, 27, 26, 43, 45, 46] sts.

Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X Only:
Work Decrease Row.
Work 3 rows in stockinette st.
Repeat these 4 rows 3 times more. -[-, -, -, 35, 37, 38] sts.

Work Decrease Row.
P 1 row.
Repeat these 2 rows -[-, -, -, 3, 2, 2] times more. -[-, -, -, 27, 31, 32] sts.

All Sizes:

BO 3[3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4] sts at beginning of next 4 rows.
BO remaining 13[14, 15, 14, 15, 15, 16] sts.
 
FINISHING

Sew sleeves into armholes.
Sew sleeve seams and side seams.
Weave in ends and block as desired.

Cabled Bands:
Using US 6/4mm needles and CC, CO 29 sts. Work two bands of Braided Cable that are each long enough to fit around a sleeve, just above the row of pleats (see Fig. 1). The sleeve bands should be snug, but not tight enough to pucker the upper part of the sleeve.

Make a third band that is long enough to wrap around the neckline, front and lower edges of the sweater, with the ends of the band meeting at the back neck. The band should overlap the front edges of the sweater, giving the lapels a rounded shape (see Fig. 2).

As you work, check the desired length of each piece by pinning it against the garment. If possible, place the garment on a dress form while pinning the bands in place.
Secure the bands with safety pins and sew them to the sweater, using tapestry needle and CC.

Weave in any remaining ends

.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Axelle de Sauveterre’s designs have previously appeared in Knitty, and on Two Pointy Sticks. Keep an eye out for her cashmere car coat pattern featured in Expectant Little Knits: Chic Designs for Moms to Be from Lark Books.

Her handpainted cashmere and other fibers can be found at sauveterredesign.com.