Have silky wrist warmers and
sturdy mittens, too,
all from the same Shetland fleece. Use the variation
in the fiber of this ancient
sheep breed to spin yarns exactly suited to the demands
of your mittens.
(To learn how to process a
Shetland fleece, see article Sinclair's
Search for a "Kindly" Shetland Sheep.) Wear
your wrist warmers alone
for some toastiness on a
cold day or slip the sturdy, cropped mittens
over them for extra warmth. Invisible hooks
and bars join the mittens when they are
worn together and fade into the background
when the wrist warmers are worn separately.
model: Lisa D. Jacobs photos: Paul Jacobs, Sidney Terry
MATERIALS Wrist WarmersORMittens [same fiber requirements for either project]
Loft [raw Shetland fleece,
washed, dehaired, and blended into batt
with a drum carder]; color: Natural gray,
4 ounces from The Spinning
yards, 2-ply) OR
Loft [washed Shetland fleece, dehaired
and blended into batt with a drum carder];
color: Natural gray, 2 ounces from The
Wraps per inch: 12
Yardage used: 175 yards
Commercial Yarn Alternative
Shetland Spindrift [100% Shetland wool; 115 yds/ 105m per 25g skein];
color: 550 Rose or 285 Plum; 2 skeins Note: Wristwarmers shown in #550 Rose. Mittens shown in #285 Plum
size [always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below
-- every knitter's gauge is unique]
set US #2 / 2.75mm double point
set US #3 / 3.25mm double point
1 size D / 3.25mm crochet hooking
Safety pin or split ring marker
12 small hooks
27 sts/34 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st using larger needles
PATTERN NOTES [Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
RT (Right Twist):
When worked on RS row, slip next st to cable needle and
hold to back of work, k1 from left needle, k1 from cable
needle. When worked on WS row, slip next st to cable needle
and hold to back of work, p1 from left needle, p1 from cable
RPT (Right Purl Twist): Slip next st to cable needle and hold to back of
work, k1 from left needle, p1 from cable needle.
LPT (Left Purl Twist): Slip next st to cable needle and hold to front of
work, p1 from left needle, k1 from cable needle.
RPT Join: Slip next st to cable needle and hold to back of work, k1 from
left needle, p st from cable needle together with st from wristwarmer or
ssp: Slip next 2 sts knitwise, one at a time, to right needle. Slip them
both, purlwise, back to left needle. Purl them together through their back
Instructions for basic crochet stitches can be found here.
Crochet Cast On:
Using waste yarn, work
a crochet chain several sts longer than the number of
sts to be cast on. Starting 1 or 2 sts in from end of
chain and using working yarn, pick up and k 1 st in the
back loop of each ch until the required number of sts
have been picked up. Later, the chain will be unraveled
and the resulting live sts picked up.
Instructions for the Cable Cast On can be found here.
Instructions for Blanket Stitch can be found here.
Chart: Click here to
see the charts; they will
print on a single letter-sized
Using larger needles, CO 50
sts. Divide sts between needles and join to begin working
in the round, being careful not to twist. If desired, after
a few rounds have been worked, place safety pin or split
ring marker to indicate beginning of round.
Work Rounds 1-4 of Chart A five times. 20 rounds have been
Hand is worked differently for right and left wristwarmers.
Next round establishes pattern for hand.
Left Hand: Next Round: Work Row 1 of Chart
B over first 26 sts, place marker, k24. This round sets
pattern for left hand: Chart B is worked over first 26
sts, remaining sts are worked in stockinette st.
P first st of next round from first needle
of round onto last needle of round. This point will now be beginning
of round; move end-of-round marker accordingly. Next Round: K24, place marker,
work Row 1 of Chart B over last 26 sts. This round sets
pattern for right hand: First 24 sts are worked in stockinette
st, Chart B is worked over remaining 26 sts.
Work 11 more rounds in pattern
as set. You will have just completed Row 12 of Chart B.
Turn work so that WS is facing. Work 12 rows back and forth,
forming a thumb opening; when all rows of Chart B have been
worked, remove marker and work these sts in stockinette st.
At end of last row (a RS row),
join work to resume working in the round.
Upper hand shaping is worked differently for right and left
Left Hand: Next Round: K24, k2tog, k to
last 2 sts, ssk. 2 sts decreased.
K 3 rounds.
Repeat these 4 rounds three
times more. 42 sts.
Right Hand: Next Round: K2tog, k22, ssk,
place marker, k24. 48 sts.
K 3 rounds.
Next Round: K2tog, k to 2 sts before marker, ssk, k to end.
K 3 rounds.
Repeat these 4 rounds twice
more. 42 sts.
Continue in stockinette st
until work measures 5 inches from top of cuff, measured
along center of palm. Next Round: [K4, k2tog] seven
times. 35 sts. Break yarn.
Using smaller needle and Crochet
Cast On method, CO 4 sts.
Turn these sts so that WS is
facing. Slip first st of wristwarmer to beginning of needle
holding newly cast on sts; ssp (first st of wristwarmer worked
together with first st of edging), k2, p1. This counts as
Row 1 of Chart C.
Continue working sts of edging
following Chart C, joining to sts of wristwarmer at beginning
of each WS row and at end of chart row 6 as indicated, until
all sts of wristwarmer have been joined. Break yarn, leaving
a tail approx. 8 inches long.
Carefully remove waste yarn from CO edge of edging, placing
resulting live sts on a smaller double-point needle. Graft
to sts at end of edging.
Finish Thumb Opening:
Join yarn at base of thumb
opening. Crochet around opening, working 1 slip st in each
row. Fasten off.
Using larger needle and Crochet
Cast On method, CO 5 sts, leaving a tail approx. 8 inches
Note: When working from Chart D, note that odd-numbered
rows are WS rows.
Work Rows 1-4 of Chart D 13
times. 52 rows have been worked.
Leaving working yarn attached,
carefully remove waste yarn from CO edge and place resulting
live sts on double-point needle. Form cuff into a loop, ensuring
that work is not twisted. Use yarn tail to graft sts at CO
end of cuff to sts of last row worked.
Using larger double-point needles
and attached yarn, with RS facing, pick up and k 44 sts
along edge of cuff formed by single column of p sts – this
will be slightly more than 4 sts picked up for every 5
rows. If desired, place safety pin or split ring marker
to indicate beginning of round.
K 1 round.
Hand is worked differently
for right and left mittens. Next round establishes placement
of thumb gusset.
Next Round: K to last st, place
marker, m1, k1, m1, place marker. 46 sts.
Next Round: K22, place marker,
m1, k1, m1, place marker, k21. 46 sts.
K 1 round. Increase Round: K to first
marker, slip marker, m1, k to next marker, m1, slip marker,
k to end. (For left hand, you will now be at end of round.)
Repeat these 2 rounds five
times more. 58 sts; 15 sts between markers.
Note: Read ahead! Gusset shaping directions and
stitch pattern directions and shaping directions are worked
at the same time, beginning on the next round.
Continue shaping thumb gusset as set, working increase round
every second round, twice more. 19 sts between markers.
Work 8 rounds over all sts
without increasing further.
Next Round: Work in pattern
to first marker, remove marker, [k1 for left hand] or [k2
for right hand], place next 16 sts on hold on waste yarn,
turn work so that WS is facing and use cable cast on technique
to CO 4 sts, turn work back to RS and join to continue working
in the round, [k2 for left hand] or [k1 for right hand],
remove marker, k to end of round.
AT THE SAME TIME, place chart pattern as
follows: Next Round: K1, work Round
1 of Chart E, increasing as shown, k to end of round.
This round establishes placement
of Chart E for hand. As you work thumb gusset and upper hand
as directed, continue working Chart E as set, increasing
and decreasing as shown. When last round of Chart E is complete,
work these sts in stockinette st.
When gusset shaping and chart
are complete, there will be a total of 52 sts.
Continue in stockinette st
until work measures 6 inches from top of cuff, or 1.5 inches
less than desired length to tip of longest finger.
Next round is worked differently for right and left hands.
Next Round: K24, place marker,
k26; do not work last 2 sts. Repoition sts so that this
is now beginning of round.
K28, place marker, k to end
of round, k first 2 sts of next round. Reposition sts so
that this point is now beginning of round.
Round is divided into two halves
of 26 sts each.
Decrease Round: Ssk, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip
marker, ssk, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 4 sts decreased.
K 1 round.
Repeat these 2 rounds 6 times
more. 24 sts.
Place first 12 sts on one needle, and remaining 12 sts on
another needle. Graft sts together.
Place held sts of thumb on
larger needles. K all sts, then pick up and k 3 sts in
CO edge at point where thumb meets hand. 19 sts. Next Round: K17, k2tog. 18
Work in stockinette st until thumb measures 2 inches from
picked-up sts, or desired length to tip of thumb.
Next Round: [K2tog] to end. 9 sts.
K 1 round. Break yarn, leaving
a tail approx. 6 inches long. Thread tail through yarn
needle, draw through all sts and pull tight. Weave in end
Weave in ends and block lightly.
Hook and Bar Mitten Connectors:
Mark six points evenly spaced around cuff of wristwarmer, placed in purl ribs between cables.
Form loop: Cut a piece of sewing thread approximately 1 yard
Fold it in half and thread doubled thread through the needle, knotting the ends.
Bring the needle up through the fabric near the top of the cuff, stitching through a strand of yarn.
Reinforce the loop with blanket stitch: Bring the thread up in front of the thread bar.
Place the needle under the thread bar but not through the cuff, leaving a loop.
Pass the needle through the loop.
Pull tight and repeat.
Continue until the thread loop is completely covered.
Repeat at each marked column of stitches.
Mark positions on inner edge of mitten cuff to correspond to loops on wristwarmer cuff. Sew hooks to inside of cuff, using photo as guide.
ABOUT THE DESIGNER
Lisa Jacobs discovered hand spinning at
the age of nine when her grandmother taught
her to use a drop spindle. After running out of fiber and trying
unsuccessfully to spin cotton balls, she put her spindle down for
a while to learn knitting and crochet. Today Lisa spins, knits,
and blogs in Coralville, Iowa.
publishes her patterns through Ravelry
under the name Fiber Tree Designs.