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Simply Knitting


This sweater was inspired by those wacky Bloomsbury folks; a little color, a little excess, a lot of tweedy yarn. This is not a sweater for the shy, faint of heart or premenstrual: people will stare whenever you wear it.

Never worked a shawl collar before? Fret not; all those flowers will cover a multitude of sins.

And don't miss noticing the groovy flower & button cufflinks.

model: Jillian Moreno [on cover, with Henry Holcomb] photo: Andy Holcomb

SIZE
L [XL, XXL, XXXL, XXXXL] new sizing!
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 43[49, 55, 61, 67] inches
Length:29[30.5, 32, 35, 37] inches

 

MATERIALS

[MC] Black Water Abbey Tweed [100% wool; 220 yds per 4 oz skein]; color: Chestnut; 7, 9, 10, 12, 13 skeins.

Flowers:

[CC1] Black Water Abbey Tweed [100% wool; 220 yds per 4 oz skein] color; Autumn;1 skein.
[CC2] Black Water Abbey Tweed [100% wool; 220 yds per 4 oz skein] color: Gentian;1 skein.
[CC3] Black Water Abbey Tweed [100% wool; 220 yds per 4 oz skein] color; Navy;1 skein.
[CC4] Black Water Abbey Tweed [100% wool; 220 yds per 4 oz skein] color; Wine;1 skein.

Black Water Abbey yarns are available only at www.abbeyyarns.com

Yarn substitution: 1450 [1600, 1950, 2500, 2830] yards of worsted weight yarn for the sweater & 200 yards each of four different colors for the flowers.

1 29 inch US#5/3.75mm circular needle
1 29 inch US#6/4mm circular needle
1 set US #7/4.5mm straight needles
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
7 1-inch buttons - five for button band, two for cufflinks

 

GAUGE

18 sts/26 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

 
DIRECTIONS

Back

With US#5 needles, CO 8[110, 124,138, 152] sts.
Work in moss stitch for 2.5 inches.
Change to US #6 needles, and work in St st until piece measures 19[20, 20, 20, 20.5] inches

Armhole Shaping

BO 8[10, 12, 13, 14] sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st every other row 8[9, 11, 13, 13] times.
Continue in St st until piece meas 28[29.5, 31, 34, 36] inches from hem.
 

Shoulder Shaping

BO 5[6 ,6, 8, 9] sts beg of next 2 rows.
BO 6[6, 7, 8, 9] sts beg of next 2 rows.
BO 6[7, 7, 8, 9] sts beg of next 2 rows.
BO 32[34, 38, 38, 44] back neck sts.

Front [Make 2 ,reversing shaping on second.]

With US#5 needles, CO 49[55,62, 69, 76] sts.
Work in moss stitch for 2.5 inches.
Change to US #6 needles, and work in St st until piece measures 19[20, 20, 20, 20.5] inches
Begin both armhole and neck shaping.

Armhole Shaping

BO 8[10, 12, 13, 14] sts at beg of next row.
Dec 1 st, every other row 8[9,11, 13, 13] times.
Continue in St st until piece measures 28[29.5, 31, 34, 36] inches from hem.

Neck Shaping

Dec 1 st at neck edge every 5 rows 0[0, 0, 3, 0] every 4 rows 0[0, 0,16, 19], every 3 rows 15[17,15, 0, 3] times then every row 1[0,4, 0, 0] times.
Continue in St st until piece meas 28[29.5, 31, 34, 36] inches from the hem.
Begin shoulder shaping.

Shoulder Shaping

BO 5[6, 6, 8, 9] sts beg of the next row.
BO 6[6, 7, 8, 9] sts beg of next row.
BO 6[7, 7, 8, 9] sts beg of next row.


Sleeves [Make 2]

Ruffle and Cuff Buttonholes

With US #6 needles CO 176[192, 216, 232, 256] sts.
Row 1: P.
Row 2: K.
Row 3: P.
Row 4: *K2tog* to end of row.
Row 5: P.
Row 6: *K2tog*to end of row.
Row 7: P.
Continue in St st until sleeve measures 2 inches from CO edge.

Buttonhole rows

Row 1: K 5[6, 8, 10, 12], BO 2 sts, K to last 7[8, 10, 12, 14] sts BO 2 ,K 5[6 ,8, 10, 12].
Row 2: P 5[6, 8, 10, 12], CO 2 sts over BO sts, P to last 7[8, 10, 12, 14] sts, CO 2 sts over BO sts, P 5[6, 8, 10, 12].
Row 3: K.
Row 4: P.
Continue in St st and begin sleeve increases.
Inc 1 st on each side every 2 rows 0[0, 0, 0, 5] times, every 3 rows 0[0, 0, 34, 32] times, every 4 rows 11[5, 19] times, then every 5 rows 8[14, 4] times.
Continue in St st until piece meas 17.5[ 18.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21] inches.

Cap Shaping

BO 8[10, 12, 13, 14] sts each side.
Dec 1 st each side, every row, 11[7, 6, 14, 17] times, then every 2 rows, 8[12, 15, 15, 15] times.
BO remaining 28[28, 34, 42, 46] sts.

Front Bands

Left Front

With US#5 needles and RS facing, begin at lower left front edge; pick up 91[95, 95, 95, 99] sts ending at the first neck decrease.
Work in moss stitch for 2 rows.

Buttonhole Rows

Work 2 sts, BO next 3sts, [work 18[19, 19, 19, 20] sts, BO 3] 4 times, work to end.
On next row, CO 3 sts over bound off sts.
Work 2 rows in moss stitch.
BO in moss stitch.

Right Front

With US#5 needles and RS facing, begin at lower right front edge; pick up 91[95, 95, 95, 99] sts ending at the first neck decrease.
Work in moss stitch for 5 rows.
BO in moss stitch.

Shawl Collar

With US#5 needles and RS facing, begin at right neck edge.
Pick up 48[49, 57, 73, 78] sts along the neck edge.
Pick up 32[34, 38, 38, 44] sts along the back of the neck.
Pick up 48[49, 57, 73, 78]sts down along the neck edge.
Break yarn.

Starting at the right neck edge:

Slip 32[33, 38, 46, 50] sts, place marker.
Work 64[66, 76, 92, 100] sts in K1, P1 rib, place marker.

Begin short rows

Short rows are worked back and forth on the collar. Starting with a portion of the collar sts, one of the remaining sts is worked on each row. The tricky part of short rowing is to remember to wrap the st that will be knit in two rows before you turn your piece. If you don't wrap the st it will leave a hole in your piece.

Row 1: Work in K1,P1 rib to marker, remove marker, wrap next st, turn piece.
Row 2: Work in K1, P1 rib to marker, remove marker, wrap next st, turn piece.
Row 3: Work in K1, P1 rib to wrapped st work st and wrap together [K or P st and wrapped thread together], wrap next st, turn piece.

**Continue until all collar stitches have been worked**

How to wrap

If last st worked was K, slip st with yarn in front.
If last st worked was P, slip st with yarn in back.
Slip next stitch to right needle bring yarn between needles to opposite side.
Slip st back to left needle.
Turn piece and continue working in pattern.

Flowers

Large flower [Make 8 of each color]

With US#7 needles, CO 20 sts.
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Knit into the front & back of every stitch.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: Knit into the front & back of every stitch.
BO all sts.

Small flower [Make 6 of each color]

With US#7 needles CO 10 sts.
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Knit into the front & back of every stitch.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: Knit into the front & back of every stitch.
BO all sts.

Assembling flowers:

Thread tapestry needle on to cast off thread, let dangle.

Fold cast off corner over, it forms a triangle, hold firmly.

Wrap rest of knitting around the triangle to form a flower.

Pick up dangling tapestry needle and stitch flower together.

Cufflinks:

Make & assemble 2 small flowers.
Sew flowers onto the back of 2 buttons.
Button through both sleeve buttonholes.

 
FINISHING

Sew pieces together - don't forget to sew the collar to the button bands.
Block - the collar should curl under a smidge at the edge all the way around.
Sew on flowers in whatever pattern moves you.
Put on sweater, apply red lipstick and strut it!

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Jillian Moreno currently can't find her ass with two hands and flashlight, but knows it's somewhere in Ann Arbor, Michigan.

With a preschooler and a new baby there's not much time for knitting, but she still manages to buy yarn.