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cozyclapotisleaves+wavesbelle starholey moley
boo, toozigzagblazegiraffecolorlinesleopetrol
the rockstiggerskating queenunbiasedhallowigfall surprise

I found myself wondering just what I could do with all that cheap, bright acrylic yarn one finds in craft shops. I also found myself thinking about Halloween. Add in a bad hair day and this is what I got.

This wig is worked from the bottom up, the bound off edge is the center part.

 

model/photos: Megan Reardon

SIZE
One size fits all/Adult
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
8 inches wide at widest point when flat (unstretched)
11 inches long when flat
 

MATERIALS

[ MC] Red Heart Kids [100% acrylic; 5oz.]; color: Pink, shade 2734

1 pair US #8/5mm needles
1 set of 5 US #8/5mm double-pointed needles OR
2 US #8/5mm circular needles (any length)
4 stitch markers, 2 each of 2 different colors
Tapestry needle

 

STITCH PATTERNS

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations can be found here]

2 X 2 rib
Row 1 [RS]: K3, [p2, k2] to last st, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: P3, [k2, p2] to last st, p1.

 
GAUGE

28 sts/22 rows = 4 inches in 2x2 rib (unstretched)

 

DIRECTIONS
Wig
Using straight needles or one set of circulars, cast on 96 sts.
Work in 2 x 2 rib until the piece is as long as the distance between the bottom of your chin, and your eyebrow (about 6.5"), ending with a WS row.
NOTE: The extra stitches along the edge of the work will balance the width of the first and last ribs. Later on, when the bangs are added, these stitches will become parts of purl ribs.

If more length in the main body of the wig is desired, work more rows at this point.
Next row [RS]: work as before, but slip the first and last stitch.

Bangs
With RS facing and using backward loop cast on, loosely CO 32 sts. The backward loop cast on allows for plenty of stretch.
Div sts onto DPNs or circulars and join to work in the round with the RS of the wig facing out, being careful not to twist stitches. The first stitch will be a p; follow rib pattern after that.
Work in 2x2 rib for 10 rows.
NOTE: The extra stitches that were at the beginning and end of the work up to this point become parts of purl ribs where the bangs join - see diagram A below for example.

If more length in the bangs is desired, work more rows at this point.

Work Decreases
Using diagram B below as a guide, rearrange stitches on needles and add stitch markers.
(Diagram B shows placement for both double-pointed and circular needles.) When placing markers, begin counting from center front of bangs, which falls in the center of a purl rib.

 

NOTE: Decreases will be worked identically at the front and back of the wig. Markers have been placed one stitch away from decreases instead of directly next to decreases, for ease of working.

Begin decrease round by working decreases over bangs.
Decrease Round
*Work in rib as set to marker color 1, slip marker, k1, ssk, rib as set to 3 sts before marker color 2, k2tog, k1, slip marker.
Rep from *. Work this round every round until 6 sts rem between markers.
Work to marker color 1 (right edge of bangs section).
Next Round: *Sl marker, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, sl marker, [p2tog, k2] to 2 sts before next marker, p2tog. Repeat from * once.
Remove st marker, k1, sl1, transfer the first half of the work (between center front and center back) to one DPN or circular needle, removing st markers, transfer the second half of the work to a second needle, cut yarn, leaving a 2-foot length for use in binding off.
Carefully flip work inside out, in preparation for working a 3-needle BO from the WS.
Work 3-needle BO tightly. (A crochet hook works well in place of a third needle.)

 
FINISHING

Weave in ends and turn right side out

ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Megan makes and sells knitting needle cases at The Organized Knitter.

She thinks about Halloween all year long.